One Way to BA

Grandma Got Run Over by a Reindeer

2011-12-15T17:19:00.000-03:00

A Christmas classic.. the fact that there's a music video is amazing.

Brooklyn Museum: In Conversation

2011-10-16T19:39:00.000-03:00

Last Thursday evening I attended an event at the Brooklyn Museum, In Conversation: Sanford Biggers with Marcus Samuelsson and Mos Def. Mos Def was my initial draw to the event. Not only is he a talented hip hop artist from Brooklyn, but he happens to be in one of my favorite movies (you know, the kind of favorite movie you can watch over and over and it brings comfort rather than annoyance), Brown Sugar, which is just one notch on his acting belt. To be honest, I didn't know much about the other two men beforehand, but was interested in the theme of the discussion, which was how culture and society has shaped their work.

Sanford Biggers is an artist who happens to currently have an exhibit at the Brooklyn Museum, Sweet Funk. Marcus Samuelsson is an award winning chef who most recently opened the restaurant Red Rooster in Harlem. The three men are well known in their fields for not only their talent, but for being a part of their communities on different levels.

Although Sanford was meant to facilitate the discussion, the conversation gradually fell into a relaxed one among friends, as the three men already know each other well. Each very different in their art form and personality, I found all to be inspiring, not without a sense of humor, and grounded. Discussion topics flowed from how their work is impacted by their roots and childhood as well as issues in society, challenges they face, particulary as black men, the message they hope to send through their work, lessons learned, and future goals. The audience was responsive and passionate. There was a high level of comfort between everyone in the room.

Cookies and peanuts were passed around throughout the evening and not until the end of the discussion did we find out that Marcus had made these specifically for this event. The peanuts, which were spiced with wasabi, were a nod to Sanford's work, where Japanese influences can often be found. The cookies were a mix of vanilla and chocolate, made to reflect how one of their goals as artists is to reach all types of people and, hopefully, bring them together over their music, art, and food.

peanut butter

2011-03-09T17:07:00.004-03:00

This weekend I went to the Nutropolitan Museum of Art, the world's first PB&J exhibit! I love peanut butter and was promised a free jar, so my decision to visit this exhibit was a no-brainer.

Peanut Butter & Co, an amazing PB company that I don't know how I hadn't heard of before, presented the exhibit, along with the National Peanut Board. Peanut Butter & Co sells a variety of peanut butter products and has a sandwich shop in the village, which I'll obviously be checking out. Death by Peanut Butter Sundae? Yes, please!

The exhibit, which was only presented over this past weekend, consisted of delicious photographs of creative peanut butter sandwiches, creating your own peanut butter sandwich (which you then got to enjoy), information on how peanuts are healthy for you, and a free jar of Peanut Butter & Co peanut butter on the way out, along with a special knife for ideal peanut butter spreading. For every jar PB & Co handed out, they donated one to the Food Bank for NY. I received a jar of Cinnamon Raisin Swirl Peanut Butter, which I never knew existed, but it is delicious. When I created my own peanut butter sandwich, they used White Chocolate Peanut Butter, which was also tasty.

peanut butter banana split

with caviar and champagne.. fancy

starry night

the king - bacon, banana, honey

make your own sandwich...

don't forget the toppings!

Bagged peanut butter jars waiting to be handed out

the mexican suitcase

2011-02-13T19:26:00.001-03:00

Currently, the International Center of Photography, in New York, is displaying The Mexican Suitcase exhibit. The exhibit contains photographs, with negatives included, of the Spanish Civil War, taken by three young photographers - Robert Capa, Gerda Taro, and Chim. After the war ended in 1939, the negatives had been passed on from person to person in order to keep them protected, but then went missing for almost 70 years before turning up in Mexico in 2007.

According to the exhibit, these three photographers "laid the foundation for modern war photography." The photographs include shots from the battle field, images of soldiers, citizens, and political figures, and insight into how the war affected various parts of the country. The images are really fantastic; you almost feel like you were there, especially since almost all of them are candid and many capture what was going on behind the scenes. Many of these photographs had been published in national and international magazines during the war, sometimes with credit given, but many times lacking a photographer's name. Now that these negatives have been discovered, photos are matched up and credit can now be given to one of these three photographers.

One of the things I found most intriguing were the boxes of negatives themselves. Like a box of chocolates, the rolls of negatives are separated, each in their own little square, inside the box. On the inside of the lid, the photographers drew their own squares to match those holding the negatives, and hand wrote what each roll was of. The detail and time that goes into a project like that, compared to the way we quickly categorize our photographs today, is amazing. Not to mention the weight of lugging all those rolls around, rather than dumping them on your computer.

smokin' in the girls room

2011-02-12T13:36:00.000-03:00

My first day in Spain was a long (but great) one. Most people like to get off an overnight international flight and wash off the plane smell before heading out for the day, exploring whatever foreign city they landed in. Not me. I like to drop my bags off without a shower, grab a quick cafe con leche, and go teach English. Which is exactly what I did when I landed in Madrid in December to visit Paul.

After an afternoon of speaking in slow English, stumbling over my Spanish, dancing as if there were ants in my pants or a bear on my head, coloring in and gluing Christmas ornaments to the paper tree, and meeting a ton of people (5 year olds and adults alike), I was already having a great time in Spain. After the school bell rang and we were all dismissed, the good times continued because a group of us went to happy hour and then bowling. Two of my favorite things. At this bowling alley, they even had men manually sending back the balls to you, like in Argentina. It's a dangerous job, but someone's gotta do it?

Before we knew it, it was 10pm and we were all bowled out and hungry. My body and mind were exhausted from the traveling and lack of sleep on the plane. Although I was having a great time, I couldn't wait to get some sleep. After grabbing dinner (which inspired one of these pizzas) we headed home, where I planned on passing out, as it was almost midnight, which is actually early on Madrid's watch. As I was organizing my things and pulling out my pajamas, Paul pointed out that it was my only Friday night in Spain, and maybe we should take advantage of it by going back out for a walk and seeing what was going on in the city? He was absolutely right, and I immediately agreed, putting my pajamas back down. Suddenly we both seemed to have a second wind as we walked out into the cold night air to see what was waiting in Madrid.

We walked and chatted for a long time, giving me a great opportunity to take in the city all lit up. I just followed Paul, as I clearly had no idea where I was going, and wouldn't have even known if he was lost and hiding it. After walking for at least 45 minutes we stopped into this super cute and cozy bar. Paul had been to the bar next door before and this one had caught his eye. We sat at a table in the window and ordered our drinks, but of course I had to go to the bathroom before I could get settled (me and my small bladder). I got up and asked one of the servers where the restrooms were, and he pointed to the door and explained to me that they were outside, to the right, and in the bar next door. Now, those who know me know how gullible I am, so although I was a bit skeptical, I thought it made a bit of sense because maybe the 2 bars were connected or owned by the same people or something along those lines.. plus, this kind of oddity would somehow be completely normal in Argentina. So I kindly thanked him and turned back to our table to tell Paul that the reason I'm walking back outside into the cold night is to use the bathroom at the bar next door, not because I was ditching him. And I would probably want to grab my jacket while I was at it.

"No no no!" the server laughed, before I had a chance to get back to the table. This bar actually had their own restrooms and they were right downstairs! Imagine that. Lesson learned: Spaniards have a sense of humor.

So I head downstairs to the women's restroom, without having to go outside first, and find one stall that is already occupied, so I wait. A couple minutes later, the woman emerges from the stall... with a lit cigarette in hand! My goodness, all I can think about is how did she possibly do all she had to do in there while smoking a cigarette. Plus the fact that it just seems extremely unhealthy.. even more so than smoking a cigarette in a "normal" setting.

I go back upstairs and obviously tell Paul both of these stories, who replies, "That's really funny. you should write a blog post about that."

cuba

2011-02-09T20:43:00.000-03:00

For all us Americans who have been wanting to go to Cuba and haven't found the loophole yet, although some of you have, Cuba is coming to us this Spring. A taste of this Caribbean island will visit New York through a Cuban Arts Festival called ¡Si Cuba! Dancing, music, paintings, photography, film, and more, will give New Yorkers a taste of the lively culture of Cuba, while taking a step in the right direction of forming a positive relationship between the states and the island.

pizza pizza

2011-01-26T22:29:00.001-03:00

I've made a couple of South American dishes in the past few weeks and meant to take pictures, but forgot. oops.

One night I made 2 different types of homemade empanadas - one with mushrooms and cheese, and one with ground turkey (in place of ground beef) complete with hard boiled egg and spices such as cumin. Good, but not as good as the place on the corner in San Telmo.

Another night I made a Colombian chicken, corn, and potato stew following this recipe. It is known as Ajiaco in Colombia, and although the stew I made was delicious (if I may say so myself) it did not live up to the Ajiaco my Colombian roommate in Buenos Aires made. She recently sent me her recipe, so that will have to wait for another cooking adventure.

Tonight, I didn't completely follow the South American theme, but I did remember to take pictures! Well, I guess they do eat a lot of pizza in Argentina, but that doesn't make it Argentine. Anyway, Trader Joe's $0.99 pizza dough was the foundation for the 3 different pies I made. I used garlic and herb dough for the plain pie, and whole wheat for the other two. They were all delicious, especially washed down with some Malbec ;) The brie and green apple pizza was inspired by a dinner eaten at a random Italian restaurant in Madrid, and I think it was my favorite one that came out of the oven tonight.

ready for the oven

half plain, half pepperoni

pesto, mushrooms, goat cheese


caramelized onion, green apple, brie

argentina in spain

2010-12-22T20:58:00.000-03:00

A little Argentine ♥ in Madrid...

mate

cooking Argentine meat with love

alfajores

map, futbol, obelisk

Feliz Navidad

2010-12-16T21:48:00.002-03:00

Decorating a paper Christmas tree with ornaments
created by the kindergarten class of an elementary school in Madrid...
not something I thought I'd be doing this holiday season, but happy I got to :)

HOW TO play dudo

2010-12-14T00:15:00.003-03:00

Dudo, which translates as "I doubt," is a Latin version of America's Liar's Dice, and has similarities to the popular card game Bullsh*t.

It has been known to keep my friends and I up for hours in Argentina, as we each continued to try and earn the informal title of "Dudo Master."

"Ok, just one more game," was commonly heard as the time got later and later.

Fun, competitive, and addicting are three words that I associate with dudo. A game played with sets of 5 dice, and at minimum 3 players, the rules are rather simple. It's keeping your head in the game and learning the best strategies that are key.

I'm going to dudo you!

Each player starts with 5 dice, rolling one to see who has the highest and therefore goes first. Different colored sets make it easier to differentiate between each players' hand. Plus, they look pretty :)

1. Shake up your dice and bring them down to the table, concealing them with your hands so other players can't see.

2. Based on what dice you rolled, start by verbalizing your guess of how many dice of one number are on the table, at a minimum. For example: There are 6 players X 5 dice each = 30 dice on the table. If you rolled 3 fives, chances are there are more than 3 fives on the table total, so you may guess that there are at least 4 fives showing, between your hand and the other players'. You don't want to start too low (because you risk it coming back around to you when things are too high) or too high (because people will call dudo on you).

3. The next player can guess the same or higher amount, but must go higher in the dice number. They make this guess based on what other people have called and what they rolled in their own hand. For example: If you guessed 5 fives, the player after you can guess 5 sixes, 5 aces (ones), or 6 of anything, 7 of anything, 8 of anything, etc.

Dudo!

4. If at any point you believe that someone has made an incorrect guess, you call "dudo!" At this point, everyone must lift their hands and show their dice. If there are at least the number on the table that the other player called, you lose a dice. If there are less than they called, they lose a dice. Lost dice go in the middle of the table, so players can glance down and calculate the odds based on how many dice are left under people's hands.

5. The last person with any dice is the winner AKA Dudo Master.

Smack talking, lying, and laughing are highly encouraged.

spanish is intriguing

2010-12-10T17:08:00.002-03:00

"We speak Spanish.. mainly because it's the language that we speak."

Jaja.. great commercial for Kahlua, using Spanish, an "intriguing language..."

¡futbol!

2010-12-09T19:08:00.000-03:00

Argentines eat, sleep, and breath futbol. Next to meat, which is a staple in the Argentine diet, it's safe to say that futbol is a top passion throughout the country. So, you can imagine how amazing it was to be in Argentina when the 2010 World Cup came around, especially with the national team being a participant again.


Argentina VS Spain through the window

Going to a game during the regular futbol season is excitement enough. Stadiums and the surrounding businesses don't even serve alcohol before, during, or after the match because fans are drunk enough on their love for the game. Even little kids are yelling obscenities at the other team's fans, everyone knows all of the chants, and no one stays seated. Fans are dedicated to their team from the time they are born. Futbol in Argentina is like a religion.


World Cup in Plaza San Martin

During the World Cup, futbol was everywhere everyday. Argentina made it to the quarter finals in the last World Cup, 2006, and with Diego Maradona, the controversial yet arguably best futbol player of all time, in the coaching position for 2010, expectations and excitement were high. Every TV you passed had a game on, evident by the unavoidable sound of vuvuzelas, and many bars set up big screens to show all the matches. A big screen was set up in Plaza San Martin to enjoy the tournament outside. Bars, restaurants, and cafes were packed with fans, locals and foreigners alike, to catch all 64 games of the tournament. Fans, including my friends and I, staked out spots throughout the city early, as to get good seats. Bosses gave their employees a break in the middle of the day so as not to miss any of the action. The buzz of futbol filled the air for the month of the World Cup and I was swept up right along with it.

Futbol & Meat

Unfortunately, Argentina didn't make it past the quarter finals this year, but their love of the game has never been more apparent... and there's always 2014. ¡Vamos Argentina!

catching up

2010-12-09T18:02:00.000-03:00

Enjoying my last few months in Argentina, and readjusting and taking in everything I missed while away from the states, I have obviously slacked on One Way to BA.

Since my last post I spent about 3 more amazing months in Buenos Aires, complete with more steak, Malbec, cafes, asados, San Telmo market, teaching ESL, alfajores, helado, dudo, and trips to Brazil and Bariloche. Clearly I was too busy to write :)

Since I returned to the states in June, I have been based in New Jersey, reconnecting with friends and family, job searching, volunteering, enjoying American culture while at the same time missing Argentina, and traveling up and down the East Coast as well as to Bermuda, California, and Spain.

Falling back into the routines of home has been very easy and comforting, and I love living close to family and old friends again. However, even 6 months after leaving, I still find myself thinking about life and culture in Argentina, missing the feel of it all. When you have been fortunate enough to live in such an amazing place, creating unique memories that will last a lifetime, it is hard not to think about that time. Argentina will always hold a special place in my heart :)

helena

2010-03-24T17:17:00.000-03:00

Yet another cute cafe in Buenos Aires. Surprising, right? Delicious food, refreshing mint lemonade, and an undeniably cute and quaint atmosphere make up Helena, one of my favorite places to spend the afternoon doing work.

Helena is located in Palermo Soho at Nicaragua 4816. Open Tuesday - Saturday from 9am - 9pm, Sunday from 10:30am - 7:30pm.

housewarming gift

2010-03-24T17:01:00.000-03:00

Friends who recently purchased an apartment in BA received this delicious meat from a friend and cooked it up for dinner. Only in Argentina would a big hunk of meat be a housewarming gift.

good news concerning health care and expats

2010-03-24T13:05:00.005-03:00

How does the new health care overhaul affect us expats living abroad?

Thanks for the link, amigo.

what to do if you run out of monedas

2010-02-22T08:00:00.000-03:00

MALBA exhibit - attempting to catch the bus

mother nature, give us a break por favor

2010-02-20T20:57:00.002-03:00

Twice in one week Buenos Aires was underwater due to torrential downpour. The first night, Monday the 15th, my friends and I were unfortunate enough to be out to dinner during the storm and had to walk home in the flood, which included wading through the streets of Palermo in water up to our thighs, barefoot, garbage floating by, power outages, a rope to help cross Santa Fe Av., ruined shoes, and firemen holding my hand. A 30 minute walk took 1.5 hours. Thank goodness the restaurant had given us that free champagne to go ;)

Last night a storm hit again, but luckily we were all at home this time. Santa Fe & Humboldt, a couple blocks from me, got hit bad enough to have a boat helping people through the flood. Other residents were literally swimming home, and stores and homes were flooded with water pouring in from the street. Two people unfortunately died during the storm after being electrocuted in the subway.

Although Monday night we all made it home safe and it turned into a fun and ridiculous experience that we'll never forget, getting caught in that once is enough... and having the city flooded twice in one week is more than enough... it will probably be awhile before the residents of BA will be able to make it through a storm without fearing another flood.

All pictures from Buenos Aires Herald.

ñoquis del 29

2010-02-02T23:44:00.000-03:00

Coming from an Italian family, some sort of pasta is almost always present at family get togethers. This includes gnocchis, little pasta pillows made from potatoes and flour. Every Christmas, my Grandpa made gnocchis from scratch for our family of 40. So, you can imagine my excitement when I learned of Gnocchi Day, a tradition here in Argentina.

Gnocchis (ñoquis in Spanish) are Italian, but made their way to Argentina with the Italian immigrants and their heavy influence on Argentina. The 29th of every month, restaurants serve gnocchi specials, pasta shops advertise their gnocchis, and families make them at home for dinner. This tradition comes from when payday was the 30th or the 31st so by the end of the month you had little food left in your pantry, and little money left in your wallet. Gnocchis were the obvious soluton, since the main ingredients are potato and flour, both which are very inexpensive. Seasoned grandmothers can easily and quickly throw this dish together for their family. They are made by mashing boiled potatoes, mixing them with flour, maybe a little egg and salt, rolling them out into long snakes and cutting them into little pieces. They're cooked in boiling water like other pastas. Here, variations of the recipe are popular, such as pumpkin or spinach.

As the 29th grew closer this month, I decided to have friends over to celebrate Gnocchi day. Having never made these before (does making the fork imprint after my grandpa has already done all the hard work count?) and promising a dozen friends gnocchis, I was taking a big risk. With my grandpa's recipe in hand, I began the long process.

On the 27th I boiled 1.5 kilos (a little over 3 pounds) of potatoes, peeled them, and mashed them with a fork. I covered them and put them in the fridge overnight.

The next morning I took out the potatoes, flour, an egg, and some salt. I had been dreading this next step ever since I decided to go on this cooking adventure. Today I had to mix the flour and potatoes. Too much flour and the gnocchis would be too heavy. Too little and they would fall apart in the water. I had no scale (the recipe calls for 45% of the weight of the potatoes) so had to do it by feel. I threw in some flour, an egg, and some salt, and started kneading it all together by hand. A common mistake is to keep adding and keep adding flour. But I kept adding and I kept adding. The dough was really sticky and I didn't think that felt right, but finally it seemed to reach the "right" consistency.. not that I really knew what that was supposed to be! Next, I took a handful of dough at a time and rolled it out on a floured surface, made some fork imprints, and cut it into little pieces. I transferred the fragile pieces to a floured baking sheet, and stuck them in the freezer. Between making such a big batch and it being my first time, this whole process took me a few hours. My back began aching and my wrist hurt for the rest of the day, but finally I rolled out the last bit of dough.

With all the gnoccis in the freezer until dinner time the next night, I had no idea if they were going to come out right. Would there be too much flour, causing them to sink in my guest's stomach? Or too little flour and they would fall apart in the water? The next night, with hungry guests standing by, and with my sauce and meatballs bubbling away, I boiled salted water and dropped the first batch of gnocchis in. As the recipe said, when they float they are done. I drained them, poured homemade sauce over them, called my guests in, and waited for the first bite.

Success! Everyone loved them. Or I just have really nice friends! Either way, I was proud of my cooking endeavor, although next month when the 29th rolls around I'll be going to a restaurant to celebrate!

tigre

2010-01-18T08:12:00.000-03:00

A quick and cheap train ride away lies Tigre, a small town on the delta and an easy escape from the hustle and bustle of the city. Opt for the Tren de La Costa on the way there for a more scenic route, at AR$12 one way. On the way back take the Mitre Line, which ends in Retiro, for AR$0.80 one way.

Once in Tigre enjoy a walk along the river, browse the market, and stop for lunch. Definitely take a tour of the Delta (one of the little stands along the river offering tours for about AR$22 per person is perfectly safe, and a better deal than the tourist agencies which charge almost double that) where in a 1hr boat ride you will learn about the history of the town and see how people live on the water, with boats being used for supermarkets and school buses.

If there's time, spend a few hours in Parque de la Costa, the amusement park of Buenos Aires. South America doesn't really "do" amusement parks, so don't expect 6 Flags, Busch Gardens, or any of the other usual suspects we have in the states. Ticket prices vary depending on the day and what is included, but range from AR$25 - AR$80 per person. Once inside everything is fairly close together, despite the deceiving map, making the park look much bigger than it is. For such a small park, there are some good rides, including 2 upside down rollercoasters, a log flume, a wooden rollercoaster, swings, and some extreme sports you pay extra for. Food options don't go much further than burgers, hot dogs, fries, and ice cream. Overall it's clean, fun, and a good value.

Parque de la Costa is open Tuesday - Sunday from 11am - 9pm. Tren de La Costa station is located on Av. Maipu 2300, in Olivos.

la bomba de tiempo

2010-01-17T10:00:00.004-03:00

On Monday night at about 8pm you walk up to the Konex Cultural Center, which is already throbbing from the music playing within, and get in the quick moving line behind the English speaking tourists swigging beer from a liter of Quilmes. Decline (or accept) a AR$10 pot brownie from the porteña dressed in a flowing skirt carrying a basket of her homemade desserts. Reach the ticket table and pay AR$20 to enter. Walk into a huge open area with no roof, a huge staircase sitting in the middle of the room, and crowds of people. Maneuver your way through the young hippy crowd, locals and foreigners alike, to get in line for a drink. The music is louder and more intense now that you're inside. Pay AR$15 for a huge cup (which equals 1 liter) of beer, then go to the end of the counter to pick it up. Making sure your group of friends stick together, work your way towards the stage, but not too close, or you'll get stuck in the mosh pit of sweaty dancers for the next 2 hours. Get your first glimpse of La Bomba de Tiempo, a drum group made up of talented percussionists, all wearing red and all playing their hearts out, under the direction of their conductor. Unable to resist the beat, you find your feet moving to the music and quickly the rest of your body follows. Until 10pm you get lost in the sound of the drums and the energy of the crowd.

La Bomba de Tiempo (Time Bomb) consists of 17 musicians, with Santiago Vazquez leading the group, although not all play every Monday night. A unique system of hand and body signals are used to direct the group, and improvision is often used. There is always a guest artist, and it can be anyone from a singer to a guitar player to an accordianist, accompanying them. As the Konex website says:

"Cada concierto es único e impredecible ya que depende de la interacción de todos los involucrados en el ritual: los músicos, el director, el público, el lugar, la acústica, los instrumentos, el clima y el momento."

"Each concert is unique and unpredictable because it depends on the interaction of everything involved in the ritual: the musicians, the director, the crowd, the venue, the acoustics, the instruments, the weather, and the moment."

The Konex Cultural Center is located at Sarmiento 3131. La Bomba is every Monday night from 7-10pm, AR$20 to enter.

bookstore + cafe = amazing

2010-01-16T14:24:00.006-03:00

I love books, which is why I also love bookstores. Even bookstores in another country where I can't read everything. I just love browsing the shelves, escaping into the different images, titles, characters... I could easily get lost in a bookstore and be happy.

I love coffee, which is why I also love cafes. And cafes are in abundance in Buenos Aires. Drinking coffee takes on a whole new meaning here, where to-go cups are rarely seen. It's about the experience of sitting in a cafe with a cafe con leche, a medialuna (croissant) or two, a good friend and/or a good book. The people watching possibilities are endless, and thanks to the low turnover in restaurants, you're free to sit as long as you want (or until you feel guilty taking up a table while people are waiting for one).

Join a bookstore with a cafe and a perfect combination is born. I don't mean a big Barnes & Noble with a Starbucks sitting in the center. I mean a cute little bookstore, with an equally cute little cafe tucked inside. A few of these combinations exist in Buenos Aires, including Libros del Pasaje, also known as Boutique del Libro. This particular shop sits in Palermo SoHo with high ceilings, floor to ceiling bookshelves complete with ladders to reach the higher shelves, a selection of CDs for sale, a laid back staff, a cafe along the back wall with a few tables and a couch, free WiFi (usually a given in this city, but still a plus!), a selection of alcoholic and non-alcoholic beverages, sweet and savory menu items, a seperate smoking room with a skylight, and funky but relaxing background music. Although the cafe is a bit on the pricier side (it is in Palermo, after all), all the other factors make for a cozy afternoon.

Libros del Pasaje is located at Thames 1762 and is open late everyday.

back in the usa

2009-12-16T10:01:00.001-03:00

First stop in the States after 7.5 months away: Miami International Airport.

And so far… not much of a difference.

Everyone speaks Spanish and English, all the signs are in Spanish and English, it’s warm outside, it’s an airport…

BUT – I see English magazines (Time, Newsweek, Cosmo, People, Us!), American candy (Reese’s Peanut Butter Cups, Butterfingers!), Dunkin’ Donuts, and most importantly – bagels!

Although, I’m waiting until New Jersey for the real thing. I've waited this long, I can wait a few more hours...

caballeros live on

2009-12-07T09:00:00.002-03:00

Chivalry is not dead in Argentina.

As a woman it's a given that if there's a man waiting for the bus or elevator with me, he will let me on first, no matter what. Most men here have even been raised to walk next to you on the street side of the sidewalk, which is something I've only seen my dad do up until now. Sure, men also never forget to stare you down, whistle, or catcall as you pass them, but as long as they hold the door for me, I have no problem with it.

Sometimes it's nice to be a little pampered ;)

restaurant service. or lack of.

2009-12-06T11:00:00.006-03:00

If restaurant service in the states was like the service given here in Argentina, waiters would never make any propinas (tips). As it is, they only receive 8-10% here. But the difference is, they don't live off their tips; they make a higher hourly wage so the tips aren't as important. Which may be why the service isn't very... attentive.

There's no "How is everything," "Can I get you something else," etc. Don't expect the waiter to automatically refill your drink, and don't expect them to clear your plate as soon as you're done.

On the other hand, when you do need something, simply ask and you will receive it quickly. Take your time with your meal, and don't feel bad sitting back and continuing your conversation even when you're done eating. You won't feel rushed by having the check dropped off on your table before you've even decided whether you want dessert or not. In fact, you won't receive the check until you ask for it.

The Argentines may be on to something here. Like life, going out to eat should be relaxing and leisurely, an experience to enjoy, not something to be rushed through.

guest blogger: Stuck in the 50s ... Malbec style

2009-12-04T18:55:00.008-03:00

GatoNegro. A balcony. Buenos Aires. Savoring good friends from abroad. This is DEFINITELY the life. Yes, it has been a while since an update has been made to this particular perspective of residence in the Argentina capital. (notice the alliteration - I paid attention in 8th grade). Until just recently, nothing earth-shattering has occurred in my otherwise monotonous porteña existence. A week ago a relatively unknown decided to stop in. His name: Paul. Enough said. One of the most amazing, influential people in my life. He convinces me to leave DC - at least, that it was a good idea, for me. And, in return, I was able to offer the same to him. He to Barcelona, albeit a bit later. So we have this connection. And I get to play host and tour guide for a while, which has been ... entertaining, to say the least. Wings on a wall, amazing Argentine steak, prevoleta like none other, super unhealthy yet tantalizingly delicious choripan, walks through Palermo and San Telmo and Congreso and parks and cafes and book stores, text messaging like you would not believe. A smile never escapes my face. It's been great to welcome a now good friend to a city I have come to accept as "home". He constantly comments on how well I know my surroundings and how comfortable I am here. And, it's true, when I think about it, I am comfortable here. I know my way around. Anything he has asked me, I've been able to come up with a relatively reasonable response. I am proud of myself, as I should be, he tells me. As a favor in return he puts up with my constant "so, in Barcelona, what is ...blah blah blah... like" compared to life here. Many differences, he has to say. But I like where I am. The food, the people, the wine, the vibrance. He makes me realize how much I have really gotten to know my new surroundings, how well I have managed on my own, meeting new people, living independently, tolerating Argentine casanovas, tackling check-out counters, confidently navigating bus routes. It's impressive, he says, of where I am here in Buenos Aires. And, you know, I agree.

It has been really nice having a friend from DC come to visit. To show around. To be "normal" around. To have mutual experiences and connections to reflect upon, and at the same time, understand what it is like to leave everything that you perceive as normal American living for a new, well, American life. And I am doing very well. I may not have all the answers. I may be enjoying my youth. But it's where I should be - eating too much ice cream, enjoying my oh-too-many-hours of leisure time, figuring out what is best for me, outside my comfort zone. In a new comfort zone.

Cats and walruses. Yeeeeessssss. Balloon hearts. Mate microphones. Wine on a balcony in a perfect, cloudless, sunny porteño evening. It's my life, and I love it.

Hasta pronto, familia y amigos. Todo bien. No se preocupen. Estoy en buenas manos.

Meghan

(About the author: Paul Contino is a respected and worldy traveler, making his way, one country at a time, through South America. You can find his perception of latin life in this particular article, as well as at http://paulcontino.wordpress.com. Kudos to his entertaining personality and unique and somewhat odd aproach to life!)

choripan (bondiola not pictured)

posing with the author

celebrate good times

2009-10-20T16:19:00.000-03:00

Every time I turn around we're celebrating another holiday here in Argentina.

They start out similar to national holidays in the states, with Independence day (2 of them), flag day, Mother's Day (although it's in October), Father's Day, and Columbus Day (which I selfishly thought only the states celebrated. duh).

Then we get into the holidays that you might find on a random USA calendar, but no one really celebrates, like Secretary's Day and Teacher's Day. Then there are the holidays we just don't have in the states, like Friend's Day, Children's Day, Student's Day, Spring Day, and Animal's Day. Not only will you find these on the calendar, but you will find people fully celebrating them, and I love it.

On Friend's Day (Dia del Amigo) old friends get together for dinner, drinks, or mate. It's a nice reminder to thank your friends for being them, and an excuse to get together during busy schedules. It started in Argentina the day man walked the moon. Enrique Febbraro, an Argentine teacher, dentist, and musician, had a peaceful thought that on this day the entire world was united and were friends, and that the anniversary should be celebrated every year as Dia del Amigo. Unfortunately, Uruguay was the only other country to follow suit. I think I should bring it to the states.

Children's Day is celebrated much like Mother's & Father's Day; the family gets together on a Sunday and children receive gifts.

Student's Day and Spring Day always fall on the same date, September 21, the first day of Spring (Primavera). High school students have the day off and flock to the parks with their friends for mate, games, and food. The parks are more packed than usual, and picnics are going on everywhere. Individual flowers are sold in the streets because traditionally males are supposed to buy flowers for their female friends. Right around Dia de la Primavera, "Feliz Primavera" and flower decorations start showing up in every store front. They really take this beautiful season seriously here!

Although there are so many holidays I can barely keep track, I really admire the way Argentines celebrate the non-patriotic and -religious ones. Although we should celebrate our students, teachers, mothers, fathers, children, friends, secretaries, animals, and even seasons regularly, it's easy to forget. The more holidays the merrier - a little extra celebrating never hurt anyone!

tango

2009-10-06T20:32:00.002-03:00

Tango is THE dance of Buenos Aires. An intimate dance which uses a lot of improvisation, it originated here in BA and the tradition still carries on. Going a day without seeing at least one tango image, store, or performance is almost impossible!

One of the few things open on Sundays is the San Telmo Market. Since almost everything else is closed, it seems most of the city flocks here to pass Sunday afternoon. We stroll, shop, eat, and what else, watch tango.

easy like sunday morning

2009-10-06T18:28:00.002-03:00

A Sunday in Buenos Aires, where almost everything is shut down..

feliz

2009-09-12T11:00:00.000-03:00

According to a recent Forbes article, Buenos Aires is (perceived to be) the 10th happiest city in the world. Rio de Janeiro topped off the list at number 1, and all those in between are in Australia, Europe, Brazil again, and only one in the US (take a wild guess which one).

The reason given for BA making the list is rather disappointing:

"Argentina's largest city makes the cut in part for its relative proximity to the first city on this list. "It's a slightly diluted version of Rio," says Anholt. "I suspect people know far less about Buenos Aires than Rio. They may not know it's in Argentina, but they know it's in Latin America.""

I don't doubt that most people don't know too much about Buenos Aires, but I'd like to think it's perceived to be one of the happiest cities for reasons other than just its proximity to Rio! My friends and I can certainly list quite a few :)
Either way, I'm proud that my current home made the list.

9/11 abroad

2009-09-11T16:48:00.002-03:00

This is my first time being out of the country on the anniversary of 9/11.

8 years later, my mind is no less further from the stressful memory of that tragic day, when I was a senior in high school watching the smoke rise up from the city while standing next to my classmates in New Jersey.. But this day also usually brings positive thoughts of a nation united, a country who grew closer to each other and became prouder to be Americans. This is proven each year as the anniversary falls upon us, when American flags are waved, when those we lost are honored, when we come together to reflect, when we're maybe a little nicer to strangers because we know their thoughts are also wandering back to that fateful day we can never forget...

The past 7 anniversaries I have been in Washington, DC on the anniversary and have usually made my way to the National Mall for a ceremony. Argentina happens to be a little further removed from the situation so this year it's safe to say I am having a different experience... basically the complete opposite than I would be having in the states, since this day doesn't have as much significance here.

Although there are no American flags waving and I am on a different continent, my thoughts, and the rest of the expats' I'm sure, are with the states, and my mind can't help but drift back to the day that is still so clear in our memories.

nightlife

2009-09-10T10:33:00.003-03:00

BA is home to a very relaxed lifestyle, which has its pros (obvious) and cons (people are late, everything is a process, etc). One result of the relaxed attitude is the late nightlife. We drink coffee when people in the states are preparing dinner. We eat dinner when American families are going to bed. And we get to the bar or club when bartenders in the states are calling last call.

By now I am used to taking my time. Why do I need to rush home from work to eat dinner at 6? I can get more done, relax, take my time, and ease into everything. It just makes more sense. I still can't handle the late club nights every time, but since I love dancing the night away, I make it through more often than not.

Here's a better idea of the comparison between a typical Friday night in DC and one in BA:

DC: Finish work at 5 or 6 PM. Have already been planning the night with my friends so I know exactly what I'm wearing and where I have to be at what time.

BA: Finish teaching my last class in the afternoon, have coffee around 5 or 6 PM,
and have probably finished lunch with friends not long before that.

DC: Rush home from work, jump in the shower, make a very quick dinner to eat while getting ready. Must be at X's house at 8:30PM and still have to pick up drinks along the way

BA: Discuss the night's plans with friends. It's decided we'll have the "pre"
(read: pre-game) at X's apartment around 11PM, and we have a club in mind.
In the meantime, I go home and relax.

DC: Make it to X's house late - quarter of 9 - because the metro had delays. We want to make it to the bar around 11PM, so enjoy drinks and company until then, possibly some beer pong.

BA: Cook dinner around 10PM and then get in the shower.
Make my way out of the apartment to catch the bus around 11:30PM.
Get to X's place and I'm the first one.

DC: Get on the metro around 10:30PM and arrive at the bars around 11.
They're starting to fill up and some people are lingering from happy hour.

BA: The rest of my friends start showing up to the apartment shortly after me.
Since we didn't pick up beer along the way, we just have it delivered.
A few rounds of dudo are necessary.

DC: We dance, drink, dance some more, and get kicked out of the bar after last call, around 2 or 2:30AM. Jumbo slice is calling our name, so we get pizza and eat it in the cab on the way home. Asleep by 3:30AM.

BA: At 2AM we leave the apartment to get to the club.
We need to be in by 2:30 to avoid the entrada (cover charge).
On the way we pick up empanadas porque tenemos hambre.

BA: We get to the club at 2:30AM and it's virtually empty. It starts to fill up around 3 or so. We dance, drink, dance some more.
"Que hora es?" someone asks. 4AM, it's early still.

BA: Finally, at 6AM, after our fill of nonstop dancing, we willingly leave the club. It's still packed and will be for awhile longer, but we're tired. We get in cabs and head home, maybe catching the sunrise along the way. Asleep by 7AM.

Some nights I would prefer the night out in DC, but for now... when in Rome!

spanish in argentina

2009-09-09T11:59:00.004-03:00

Argentine Spanish is not easy. Even native Spanish speakers from other countries sometimes have trouble understanding the Argentines. Coming here I had to throw out some of what I learned in high school Spanish, such as:

"You'll never need to use vos, don't even study it." You'll never need to use vos... except in Argentina.

Pollo, me llamo, tortilla... all pronounced with the ll as y, right? wrong. ll = sh.

Add to that some unfamiliar vocabulary (ex: strawberry = frutilla, not fresa), it's no surprise that after 4 months of living here I find it easier to speak with my Colombian roommate of 1 month than anyone on the streets of BA. I have fully adjusted to pronouncing the ll the Argentine way, but understanding it is not always easy, and I'm still using tu instead of vos. Of course, I do learn more and more everyday, and am thankful that I am (almost) fully immersed in the language.

Like a lot of other cities, BA has its own dictionary of slang, but unlike a lot of cities, I think it's thicker than normal. Courtesy of my fellow-DC-friend-who-also-quit-his-job-to-move-abroad, here is a guide to some BA slang.

salida del sol, puesta del sol

2009-09-09T09:17:00.010-03:00

The sunrise and sunset are two things I believe a lot of people take for granted. They both happen everyday, are always beautiful (minus a rainy day), and take little time to watch, yet they come and go without people even realizing it. For most, the transition from light to dark (and vice versa) is just that. Light to dark, with no pink/orange/red/purple sky in between. I have to admit, I have often taken these two things for granted, but for some reason, being here makes me appreciate them more.

For a lot of people in BA, it's quite easy to catch the sunrise. No, not because they're waking up early to study or work out, but because they're still up from the night before. With a nightlife that gets started around 3AM, the odds of catching the sun waking up are high. I've certainly seen the sunrise this way once or twice ;)

Unfortunately, during sunset, most people are at work. But if you can make it to your balcony, or a place that isn't blocked by tall buildings, it's a sight to see. One friend here used to have "sunset parties" - mate, friends, and an awesome view of the sunset. There's nothing better than sitting on your balcony in warm weather, drinking a coffee/cerveza/mate, chatting with friends or listening to music, and catching the sun paint the sky as it goes down for the night.

With spring finally upon us, I hope to catch as many sunsets as I can. And by chance I'll probably catch a few more sunrises...

porro?

2009-08-31T10:31:00.000-03:00

Last week the Argentina supreme court decriminalized marijuana use, saying that adults can make their own decisions, as long as they smoke privately and don't harm anyone. Not that any law (like most laws in this country) was enforced before, since you can smell weed in the streets on any given day, but now people will certainly be a little more adventurous. This change in law follows other Latin American countries such as Venezuela, Ecuador, and Colombia.

It's not legal.. yet.. but we shall see how this step impacts la vida loca en Buenos Aires.

If you'd like to brush up on your related Spanish vocabulary, click here.

a little saigon

2009-08-30T22:00:00.001-03:00

With the number of eating options in this city it's a wonder they all stay in business with so much competition. Add to that at least 20 puertas cerradas (closed door restaurants) and I guess we can conclude that porteños really like to eat, and they like to do it in style.

A puerta cerrada is essentially an intimate dinner at the chef's house. The restaurants are usually only open on specific days of the week or month and offer a pre-fixed menu to a limited number of reservations. Prices tend to be higher than a "regular" restaurant but at a puerta cerrada you're also paying for more attentive service and a deliciously unique experience.

I recently had the opportunity to dine at A Little Saigon, a closed door Vietnamese restaurant in Buenos Aires. Having learned about both this restaurant and the concept of a puerta cerrada at the same time when I first arrived in BA, I had been eager to try it. My mom's visit mid-August was the perfect opportunity. A Little Saigon is open every Friday, Saturday, and Sunday for AR$100 per person, with a different theme each weekend. With only 12 seats available each night I made sure to make my reservation for the August 15th "Meat Lovers" dinner ahead of time. Thuy, the chef, immediately responded with a confirmation. We were good to go!

Saturday evening arrived and although my mom and I didn't know exactly what to expect, we were both very excited to visit A Little Saigon. We both love to cook, eat, drink, and socialize so were interested in this uncommon dining situation that neither of us had experienced before. We arrived at 9PM and Thuy's fiance, Ben, greeted us at the door and after we took our shoes off (a Vietnamese tradition and show of respect) he poured us each a glass of wine while Thuy cooked in the kitchen. The dinner table was set up in their living room, right when you walk in the door. Lighting was low, candles were lit, the table was set already, and flowers floated in water filled vases. Only 2 other reservations had been made for this evening, so we waited for them while we chatted with Ben. The first starter was brought out, flavorful pork dumplings with soy sauce. It was time for the next course, but the other reservations had not shown up yet. Once it became clear that they were probably not coming, it was decided that Thuy and Ben would join us in eating dinner, and they began to bring out the rest of the meal.

We sat down and enjoyed the scrumptious appetizer of chicken rice chowder, probably my favorite dish of the evening. The main course was then served family style and included jasmine rice, caramelized pork ribs, sweet and sour shrimp (which I was especially excited for considering seafood is majorly lacking in my diet here in Argentina!), and spicy beef (which was actually spicy, not Argentine spicy). It was all incredibly delicious; Thuy is a great chef.

After the main course, dessert was served in the form of jasmine tea and cassava cake, a flourless cake made with cassava root. Neither my mom or I had ever tried it before but it was very tasty.

With all the beef, empenadas, and pizza we eat in BA, the Vietnamese food was a great break. The food was amazing, but the company was also fantastic. Thuy and Ben were so nice to welcome us into their home, and my mom and I were so happy that they ended up eating dinner with us. The 4 of us chatted like old friends all through dinner. They made us feel so welcome; we felt like we were just at our friend's apartment for dinner, minus paying! I look forward to trying other puertas cerradas in BA, and hopefully revisiting A Little Saigon.

For those of you who aren't in BA and don't have the privelage of visiting A Little Saigon, here is the recipe for Thuy's delicious Cassava Cake:

INGREDIENTS
1 lb cassava root
400 ml (1 can) coconut milk
100 ml water
2 tablespoons butter
3 eggs
2/3 cup sugar
1 teaspoon talk

METHOD
- preheat oven 345
- grate cassava root to acquire 4 cups
- combine eggs, butter, sugar, and salt. beat until frothy
- add coconut milk, water and cassava. mix well.
- pour mix into buttered 8X8 baking dish.
- bake 30 minutes, let cool before serving.

Visit A Little Saigon's website or e-mail Thuy for more information or to make a reservation

colonia, uruguay

2009-08-19T22:05:00.008-03:00

As all non-portenos living in Argentina know, we are granted an automatic 90 day tourist visa upon our arrival. This means that 90 days after our arrival we have to leave the country (whether it has to be for a day, night, or just enough time to get your passport stamped is up in the air) to renew it, or else pay a fine. The fine used to be only AR$50, which didn't exactly make us expats run to the border after 3 months, but now that it's jumped to AR$300 it's worth it to spend less on a boat ticket and make a day trip to Uruguay.

Just a quick boat ride away, the closest Uruguayan city to Buenos Aires is Colonia. Buquebus, the boat company, located in Puerto Madero at Av. Cordoba, gives you the option of the fast boat (1 hour) or the "slow" boat (3 hours), which is a little less expensive. A quiet town on the water with cobblestone streets, a lighthouse, and outdated cars, Colonia feels years away from the big city of Buenos Aires. The short travel time, plus the small size of Colonia, allows for an easy day trip.

Some of the main highlights include enjoying time on the water, walking (or riding around on a rented moto or go kart) the quaint cobblestone streets with their colonial houses, enjoying coffee in the main plaza, visiting the museums, the lighthouse, the historical city gate and wall with its cannons, and Iglesia Matriz (the oldest church in Uruguay). Even all of this will take no more than a few hours, since everything is small and centrally located, so taking your time and relaxing is key, and easy to do.

A beautiful city, and so easily accessible from Buenos Aires, a daytrip is definitely worth it.

the apartment dance

2009-07-23T17:30:00.000-03:00

As I mentioned here, it's very easy for a foreigner to find and move into an apartment in BA. With just your suitcases, a few extra belongings you may have picked up along the way, and no leases or contracts, a move can take less than an hour, as opposed to the day long process it becomes in the states.

Recently I moved out of the apartment I had been in for my first 2 months in BA, and into a new one not far away. I had what I came to BA with - 2 suitcases and a backpack, all very full - plus a few shopping bags of groceries and extra belongings that wouldn't fit into my luggage, and a mirror and a fan I had picked up from friends moving back to the states. My landlady let me out of the building and said bye as I moved everything to the sidewalk where I was planning on hailing a cab. For about 5 minutes I was standing on the curb alone, attempting to hail a cab, homeless, no keys to any apartment, with all my belongings at my feet. It turned out to be the easiest move I've made (no furniture, minimal unpacking time, no leases to sign) but that 5 minutes definitely also made it one of the most comical moves I've ever made. All part of the experience!

HOW TO not get hit by a bus in ba

2009-07-11T11:30:00.001-03:00

...and other transportation lessons learned.

Pedestrians: As noted here, stop signs are rare in the capital city of Argentina. In place of one there may be a speed bump to prevent full speed crashes, but more often than not avoiding accidents takes luck and courage. With several cars coming from both (as opposed to 4, since most streets are one way) directions, who has the right of way? The speeding cab, the speeding bus, or you, the pedestrian on foot? In the states this answer is easy: the pedestrian. Here in Buenos Aires, not so much. Try expecting traffic to stop for you (or at least slow down) when you cross the street and instead be faced with a blaring horn and a heavy foot on the gas pedal. I hope you have your running shoes on. And health insurance. Your best bet when crossing the street is to wait until one way is clear, and cars coming from the other way are slowing down for the speed bump. Another option is to run across in the same direction of whichever cars have decided to go. And I say "decided" because there doesn't seem to be any method of taking turns.

Cabs: Available cabs will have their red "Libre" light on in the front windshield. Cabs are fairly easy to flag down, especially on main streets. There will always be a line of them slowly driving past bus stops in hopes that people will get impatient waiting for the bus or realize they don't have enough monedas (coins). Pay attention to where you're going so you don't get taken for a ride, especially if you're obviously a foreigner, which is almost always obvious even if you speak the language. As far as tipping, just round up to the next peso. Take the above no-stop-sign-lesson into account and wear your seatbelt!

Subte: With all the lines starting downtown and branching out into the city, the subway layout is not the most practical, but luckily there will be a bus to take you anywhere the subte doesn't (see below). One-way on the subte is AR$1.10, no matter where you're going. There are no machines to buy your ticket from, but instead you go up to the ticket window, and bills are accepted as well as coins (but save your monedas if you can). Specify how many viajes (trips) you want and usually receive one ticket for each. Once you enter the platform you don't need your ticket anymore. Trains usually arrive within a few minutes of each other. Especially during rush hour expect to be packed like sardines in the hot cars. Make sure to watch your bag, as this can be a prime spot for pickpocketers.

Bus: The bus is tricky and takes some time to master. First things first: buy a Guia T, which is the bus guide and also a map of the city, at any newsstand. Extremely intimidating at first with all the maps, lines, and hundreds of routes, it actually makes perfect sense once you understand it. There are bus routes down almost every street and luckily they run all night, since the subte closes at 10PM. There's no schedule since you never have to wait more than a few minutes for one. Buses only take coins and there's currently a coin shortage in the city, hence all the talk of saving monedas above. Get on and either specify your direction to the driver, or say "uno, viente" or AR$1.20, which is the standard fair. If you're going less than 10 blocks it's AR$1.10.. but I'd save your coins and walk. Put your coins in the machine and retrieve your ticket. If you're the last one on and there's a line for the machine, step in as far as you can because the driver will continue on even with the door open, as long as no one is still waiting on the curb. When your stop is coming up hit the button that says "timbre" and wait near the exit because the bus will only stop for a couple seconds, if that. While on the bus, hold on tight. Like the rest of transportation in BA, it's a bumpy ride.

4th of july in buenos aires

2009-07-09T23:20:00.001-03:00

2009's 4th of July was unlike any other I've experienced. For starters, it's winter. When has America ever celebrated it's independence in 50 degree weather? Second, no BBQs. Third, no fireworks. Fourth, no parades. And last, minimal red, white, and blue. If there was any, it was probably worn by accident. The US Embassy in BA did reach out and make an attempt to remind us of the meaning behind the 4th of July while expressing their understanding that it may be difficult to celebrate without the traditions we're used to. There may have been some celebratory events geared towards Americans wanting to celebrate their country's independence, but most were canceled because of the swine flu.

With none of our normal customs available, what better alternative way to celebrate than eat dinner at TGIFridays? Can't get much more American than that in BA...

apparently i write a lot about food...

2009-07-02T22:30:00.006-03:00

Here's something different...

The swine flu is rapidly spreading in Argentina, especially in Buenos Aires. Schools are closing early for winter break, and some public offices are closing for 15 days to avoid any more spreading during what they expect to be the peak of the outbreak. Several other precautions are being taken around Buenos Aires and the rest of the country.

The health minister's press statement of "'Five percent of the swine flu cases can be serious,' and that the rest of the cases normally heal without the need to hospitalize the patient," is reassuring since it's near impossible to avoid public places. Not only are we in a crowded city, but a cab ride to my English classes will cost more than I get paid for the hour and a half I'm teaching. Starting this week people started wearing masks in all public places... the street, bus, subway, even nightclubs! It turns out the masks don't prevent germs as much as people think, and they're more to eliminate the user's fear. Whether they work or not, everyone hopes the disease slows down pronto.

oui oui? si

2009-07-01T11:00:00.001-03:00

On a quiet street in Palermo Hollywood is a cute little cafe with some of the most delicious non-Argentine food here. Oui Oui is a French restaurant that is quaintly decorated with quotes on the wall and little knick knacks everywhere. The menu, which seems more American than French, is broken up in a few locations but most of it is handwritten on a large chalkboard hanging on the wall, one column for salads and one for sandwiches. To the right is a small chalkboard with a few different cheese platters listed. There are also pink slips of paper sitting on tables with the brunch menu and smaller dishes such as soup, hummus, and cheeses, but no prices. Look next to the door and see yet another little chalkboard with breakfast items, including full American style plates with scrambled eggs, bacon, toast, and potatoes. Another sign says "hay bagels" - there are bagels, which is hard to find in BA! On the menu, bagels come with salmon and cream cheese. I have yet to try them but I doubt they compare to bagels from NJ & NY.

Oui Oui does not take reservations and is not very big, so expect to wait outside awhile, especially on a Saturday or Sunday afternoon, even if you get there as late as 3PM. Give your name to whichever waitress is at the door. They are all wearing funky outfits under mismatched aprons. If you are waiting long enough, they may bring you a sample of their specialty drink, mint lemonade, which is as refreshing as it sounds.

Once seated, take time to look over the extensive list of options. If you're sitting outside, don't forget to peak inside at the chalkboards. Most main dishes run from AR$20-AR$30. Breakfast items include coffee, tea, mint lemonade, or wine. Salads are big, and sandwiches come with either roasted potatoes or a side salad. The waitresses are friendly and don't mind if you order your dish with changes (like removing bacon bits and adding goat cheese to my salad, which is the best goat cheese I've had in BA)

If you have room for dessert, order the Mus de Chocolate Amargo (bitter chocolate mousse). Your waiter will bring a big bowl of it to your table and scoop it onto a plate for you. It's delicious, and enough to serve a few people.

Oui Oui has another location just a few doors down (Nicaragua 6099) on the corner of Dorrego, but apparently this one doesn't have a hot kitchen.

Oui Oui is located at Nicaragua 6068 and is open Tuesday - Friday from 8AM-8PM, and Saturday and Sunday from 10AM - 8PM

salta road trip

2009-06-25T10:59:00.007-03:00

Last week, at the last minute, I was fortunate enough to join my friends on trip to Salta, in northern Argentina. I knew little about the area besides everyone telling me it was "¡muy linda!" which it turns out, is true. Although my friends had done more research, they too didn't really know what to expect, so we were in for an adventure.

We started out on the luxurious 20 hour overnight bus ride which included a full reclining seat with a pillow and blanket, dinner, breakfast, both alcoholic and non alcoholic drinks, 3 movies, and a stewardess. Unlike any bus ride I've ever experienced! We arrived in Salta, the capital of the Salta region, refreshed and ready to sightsee. After checking into our hostel, we explored the small city, including the stunning San Francisco Church, the Salta Tram, and the beautiful main plaza with orange trees.

The next day we rented a car and set off to explore the rest of the region for week, staying in a different little town each night. Mainly following suggestions from guide books and tourist offices, we had no idea what to really expect.

We drove on climbing narrow, rocky, twisty roads through mountains with no barriers separating us from the cliffs below, saw breathtaking scenery, stepped out of the car into complete silence and miles of mountains, stood in a natural amphitheater, hiked La Garganta del Diablo (the devil's throat), and tasted the natural salt of the salt flats...

We stayed in small dusty, outdated towns where we were the only tourists, bought (not so) fresh produce from local grocers and cooked dinners in our homestays, ate lots of empanadas, shopped artisenaries, toured vineyards, met locals, and experienced local holiday festivals, and of course, took a lot of pictures...

Overall, an amazing experience. Read about the trip in more detail here.

new gig

2009-06-23T20:00:00.002-03:00

Starting this month I will be the Argentina Examiner for Examiner.com, a US based website with writers, or Examiners, contributing on any and every topic. Take a look here and check back often!

caminito

2009-06-14T12:20:00.000-03:00

Pick up any Buenos Aires guidebook or visit any BA travel site and you'll see a picture of El Caminito. Images of the colored houses are usually associated with the city but in fact it's actually a very small street tucked away in La Boca. It's not surrounded by the safest neighborhood so tourists are advised to take a cab or bus directly to and from Caminito Street. Here you'll find a few restaurants and cafes, a small fair full of various vendors, and of course, tango dancing.

From images, the colorful houses of Caminito give off a tropical vibe, something that Buenos Aires doesn't have, and therefore separates it from many other parts of South and Central America. The actual reason the houses are so colorful is because this neighborhood held a large community of Italian immigrants about 100 years ago. Most worked in the nearby port and didn't have much money, so stole leftover paint from work to paint their homes, resulting in a mismatched neighborhood.

Since I love a good opportunity to take interesting photos I was set on checking out Caminito for myself. I wasn't really prepared for our experience. Although the neighborhood is interesting and splashed with beautiful colors, it is obviously very touristy. You can't walk 2 feet without someone pulling you into their restaurant or their store, offering various deals and promises. Nowhere else in the city have I experienced such aggresiveness and it was certainly a turn off. The area didn't take long to walk through, so after some photos and taking a stroll through the fair, where we did purchase some jewelry, we hopped in a cab to head back. A sight to see, but not necessarily a priority.

Caminito Street is located in La Boca

antiques galore

2009-06-10T11:45:00.000-03:00

While there are several fairs in BA, they're each unique. There's Plaza Serrano with jewelry and craft vendors, and clothes being sold in the restaurants and cafes. There's Feria de Mataderos with gauchos, horses, and folk dancing. And then there's Mercado de San Telmo, full of antiques, produce vendors, and tango dancing.

Starting at Plaza de Mayo and walking down the narrow street of Defensa will take you through the typical mate gourds, scarves, and various Argentina souvenirs. But as you get deeper into San Telmo, the vendors begin to change and pretty soon every table is selling a unique collection of antiques. Clothes, jewelry, glassware, records, book, sunglasses, shoes, dishware.. you name it. The items really draw you in, and I can't help but wonder the stories behind them, whose hands they were in before they made it to the market to be sold, and how they got here.

Between all the vendors are other locals trying to make a peso or two. There are human statues (creative, but kind of scary), tango dancers, live music, roasted nuts, empanadas, and puppeteers. Cafes, parillas, and stores also line the street for a chance to step out of the cold (or heat in the summer months).

The actual Mercado de San Telmo is the huge indoor market, with an entrance on Defensa that is easy to miss. The high ceilings cover even more antiques, plus several produce vendors.

With so much to see, Mercado de San Telmo makes for a wonderful Sunday ritual.

Mercado de San Telmo building is located between Defensa, Carlos Calvo, Bolívar and Estados Unidos

differences

2009-06-08T12:08:00.001-03:00

Obviously there are many differences between the everyday life we're used to and the various different lives lived throughout the world by other cultures. Being able to experience these differences first hand is in fact one of the reasons I decided to leave the US. These differences aren't bad, since they obviously work for the people who live them everyday, they're just.. different. Buenos Aires is no exception. During my short time here I've already noticed quite a few and I'm sure there will be plenty more to come:

no pooper scooper laws
all exit signs are green
pedestrians do not have the right of way
stop signs are apparently not necessary
traffic lights change to yellow before red and before green
a key is necessary to let yourself out of your apartment unit and building (fire hazard anyone?)
although a lot of porteños do not speak English, American music, from Michael Jackson to Taylor Swift, is heard playing just about everywhere, even on local radio stations
order a coffee at a restaurant or cafe and also receive a small glass (shot glass size) of water, and a sweet, which varies but is usually individually wrapped and usually includes chocolate
eggs in the grocery store are not refrigerated

To be continued....

beef.

2009-06-04T17:48:00.000-03:00

Being here for one month and not having had any steak could be considered a sin, but finally, a traditional Argentine beef dinner... and it was well worth the wait.

La Cabrera was everything I hoped for and more. It's one of the most popular parrillas (grills) in the city, so you'll find a mix of both porteños (locals) and foreigners waiting outside for a table. Since we got there around 10pm with no reservation we were told we had a 45-50 minute wait. Would that be OK, even though we wouldn't eat until after 11 and the Buenos Aires winter weather was setting in while we waited outside? Not a problem, since they keep their waiting guests warm with complimentary champagne and passed hors d'oeuvres of chorizo and stuffed olives. We could wait all night with this treatment. But alas, the beef was waiting for us and we were finally seated at a corner table in the cozy restaurant.

Along with our basket of bread we were served 2 different dipping sauces and a bulb of roasted garlic which was delicious. One of us had eaten here before and knew that 2 beef dishes for 3 of us would be plenty, and she was right. We ordered a beef with thyme, and another beef dish which the server recommended. They soon arrived, along with 6 little ramekins of "side dishes" each, then another platter of at least 6 more ramekins. The side dishes were a mix of hot and cold items, from caramelized garlic to cold potatoes, mashed potatoes, squash, applesauce, cooked eggplant, beans, mini caprese salad, artichoke, and more. Some were not great and didn't even get touched, but others (garlic, mashed potatoes, squash) were worth eating.

We ordered the meat medium but it came out a little more medium rare. The beef with thyme was so tender and delicious. The other dish was also very delicious, just not as tender. 2 dishes, especially due to the size of one of them, was more than enough. The entire La Cabrera experience left us happy and satisfied.

look at the size of that steak!

La Cabrera is located at Cabrera 5099, in Palermo. Their sister restaurant, La Cabrera Norte, is located a few doors down at Cabrera 5127.

el rosedal

2009-06-03T11:00:00.000-03:00

Right in the middle of Parque Tres de Febrero is the stunning Rose Garden. Stroll through the paths to discover over 1,000 different types of roses and even more rose bushes, learn about the garden's history, and view the busts of famous poets in the Garden of Poets. Then take a break on one of the many benches, or spread a blanket for a picnic on the green grass and watch the paddleboats go by.

On one side of the garden you can enter right off the Tres de Febrero 1-mile paved running path, which surrounds the Rose Garden. On the other side of the lake you can enter by walking over the Puente Blanco, white bridge. Either way, you'll find yourself in one of the most beautiful parts of the city.

Roses always remind me of two very important people in my life, so besides
El Rosedal being so lovely, this reason also draws me to the garden.

parque tres de febrero

2009-06-01T13:30:00.001-03:00

Nestled into Palermo is a little piece of heaven.
Parque Tres de Febrero is a sprawling piece of land covering 62 acres, made up of several smaller parks and bodies of water. From the green grass to the different types of trees to the lakes, it's easy to lose yourself while exploring the beautiful nature the park has to offer.

On any given day, especially the weekend, you'll find people of all ages biking, running, skateboarding, rollerblading, walking, paddleboating, or picnicking. The one mile paved track around the breathtaking Rosedal (Rose Garden) is perfect for most of these activities.

A great opportunity to get some fresh air, escape
the city life, and take some photos, I'm lucky Parque Tres de Febrero is just a few blocks from my apartment.

Parque Tres de Febrero is located between Avenidas Libertador, Sarmiento, Figueroa Alcorta and Infanta Isabel.

fall. in may.

2009-05-27T12:24:00.003-03:00

adjusting to the opposite seasons, but still enjoying fall

the best empanadas in ba.. so far

2009-05-26T18:09:00.009-03:00

I've only been here for 3 weeks so obviously I haven't tried all the empanadas the city has to offer, and there are a lot, and usually at around AR$3 each (less than US$1, how can you beat that?) But out of all I've tried so far, Tonno Pizza & Cafe in Palermo are by far the best. Empanadas at Tonno were actually my very first meal in BA and they set the bar high. Some I've tried have been lacking in the filling or were obviously frozen and stuck in the microwave in the back.

Not Tonno's. Deliciously flaky, browned, and full of... filling. I've tried the pollo (chicken), espinacas con queso (spinach with cheese), jamon y queso (ham and cheese), and queso y cebolla (onion and cheese). Obviously cheese is a key factor to deliciousness.

Taste testing other empanadas won't be a problem..
but until I find ones as good as Tonno's, I'll keep returning..

Tonno Pizza & Cafe is located at the corner of
Thames & Charcas, at Charcas 4400

submarino

2009-05-22T17:44:00.001-03:00

how it arrives: hot milk and a chocolate bar (this one is even shaped like a submarine!)

stir it up

enjoy the delicious Argentine hot chocolate

This one happens to be from the cafe right on my corner, Halina Cafe

breaking plates

2009-05-20T12:46:00.008-03:00

When we decided to go to dinner Friday night, who knew breaking things was on the menu??

Although we called to delay our reservation at least twice, Mykonos welcomed us when we showed up at midnight. The first thing I noticed, besides the murals of Greek on the wall and the staff dressed in costumes, were broken plates on the ground. We figured we had missed the fun but when we sat down, they handed us each a plate. Not for our appetizers... but to break during their dance show. A few minutes later, the lights dimmed and 2 of the servers worked their way into a dance right in the middle of the dining room floor. This was our cue to get up and break some plates! Opa!

Of course the food was also a highlight of the evening at Mykonos.. the hummus with the warm pita was delicious, as was the tabule, pasta, stuffed grape leaves, and my pita a la pizza - pizza with feta, tapenade, cured ham, and basil.

Mykonos is located at Olleros 1752

a rare thing in this city

2009-05-19T17:09:00.005-03:00

stop sign

cementerio de la recoleta

2009-05-18T22:48:00.016-03:00

Speaking of the Recoleta Cemetary, my dad and I did have the pleasure of briefly visiting it last week. Walking along the outside, it's impossible to see what you're headed towards, with the high walls blocking any glimpse of the cemetary. Once inside, prepare to get lost wandering around this beautiful mini-city of tombs and statues. If you follow the crowd like we did, you'll find Evita's grave, probably the most famous one there, but take time to check out the rest of the cemetary also.

If you're here on the weekend, check out the Feria Artesanal Plaza Intendente Alvear, a market with crafts, jewelry, souvenirs, food, and more.

The Cemetary is located at Junin 1790 in Recoleta. Admission is free, but there's a charge if you wish to purchase the guidebook. The Feria is located right outside the Cemetary's entrance.

don't cry for me argentina

2009-05-15T16:41:00.017-03:00

Before Museo Evita was opened in 2002 in Buenos Aires by Eva (or Evita's, as she was affectionately called) Peron's grandniece, the mansion had been a shelter for homeless women and children, Hogar de Tránsito. As Eva spent many of her last years on projects dedicated to helping the less fortunate citizens of Argentina, it only seems fitting that this is where the museum dedicated to her is now housed.

Through photographs, original artifacts, videos, and quotes, the museum depicts Evita's short life, beginning with her early poverty filled childhood in a Buenos Aires province. Once a teenager, Evita traveled to Buenos Aires to not only escape poverty but to also pursue an acting career. From here she gained great success as a radio actress and even had a short film career.

Walking through room after room we learn of Evita's relationship with Juan Peron and her move into politics as the First Lady of Argentina. From a poor childhood with no formal education, and coming right out of an acting career, she had her fair share of critics but quickly became a popular figure in Argentina. With her own money, Eva started the Eva Peron Foundation in 1948. Through a video, we learn of the many beneficial programs Evita initiated for Argentine citizens in need. She also had a great impact on women in politics, with a strong role in gaining Argentine women the right to vote.

In 1951, Evita was diagnosed with cancer and died a year later at the young age of 33. A video goes into detail of the people's mourning, her memorial, missing corpse, and final resting place in Recoleta Cemetary, here in Buenos Aires. I visited Recoleta Cemetary last week, shortly after her birthday of May 7th, and her grave was covered in flowers, showing that even to this day Evita remains a powerful icon and influence for the Argentine people.

Never having seen Madonna's film version of the musical of Evita's life, I honestly didn't know much about Evita. It was really interesting to see original artifacts such as newspaper articles, books, and even outfits worn by her. I loved learning about all of the good she did through her charity. Luckily, there were English translations of the descriptions and quotes, which certainly helped me be able to leave having learned a few things!

Museo Evita is located at Lafinur 2988 in Palermo. Admission is AR$12, and it's open Tuesday - Sunday from 11am - 7pm. The museum also holds a gift shop, library, and restaurant, all with different hours. Definitely worth a visit!

This article can also be seen on Argentina's Travel Guide.

apartment search

2009-05-11T00:00:00.012-03:00

The apartment system in BA is fairly simple if you're just renting a room from someone. Rent is paid month to month, there are no contracts or leases to sign, no credit check, rent is way cheap (especially compared to Washington, DC!), the apartment is furnished, utilities are included in the rent, there's almost always WiFi, and there's almost always a cleaning service that comes once a week or so to not only clean but to also change your sheets and towels.

These pros outweigh the cons and the cons are also found in the US anyway, and I'm sure worldwide. Craigslist is used often here for housing. There are an abundance of postings, but unfortunately not all are quality. Some barely give any information, I was really only interested in the listings that gave information on at least the apartment, room, and roommates. These are all good things to know before moving in! If you're looking for a specific neighborhood, as I was, you have to check back often for new listings, as the listings are for all over the city. Some listings don't have pictures, and even the ones that do can be deceiving. I visited an apartment which, from the pictures, had looked bright and sunny. The reality was small and dark. I was also told the roommate was a 25 year old female student from Taiwan. It was a 70ish year old woman from BA. Go figure.

I found my apartment through Craigslist but it had been posted by In-Buenosaires, which is a site where you tell them what you're looking for and they provide options to look at. They're very helpful and I definitely recommend them. A lot of families or singles rent out unused bedrooms in their home as a way to earn money, so you could be living with kids or someone much older than you. This obviously has pros and cons but I seem to have gotten lucky with the senorita I rent from!

Overall, much less hassle than in the states!

1st stops in BA!

2009-05-10T23:49:00.007-03:00

After a long (but nonstop!) flight from New York, we arrived at the Ezeiza Ministro Pistarini International Airport (EZE) in Argentina. No one on the plane had been wearing a mask, despite the Swine Flu threats, but almost all the airport workers we first saw when we stepped off the plane were. We had to fill out a form asking if we had any flu like symptoms, and were then verbally asked the same question when we handed in the form. After that we passed by a thermal imaging camera which checked our body's temperature. Luckily, we passed all the tests with flying colors; no quarantine for us! Customs and exit security were fast. We avoided the offers of car services and "unofficial" taxis and headed to the taxi stand, where we told the woman where we were headed, and a cab driver came to meet us after just a few minutes. The ride, paid in advance, cost AR$98, which included tolls. An uneventful (but first glimpse of BA!) ride into the city brought us to our next stop - our home away from home for the week.

When we pulled up to Hostel Suites Palermo I thought we had written the address down wrong. There were no signs outside so I went up to the gate and pressed the buzzer. We were immediately buzzed in (you also had to be buzzed out as part of security) so gathered our luggage and entered the old mansion that had been restored into a hostel. The young front desk staff were extremely friendly and helpful. We were a bit early so we left our bags in the "luggage room" (read: small closet) and ventured out with a map and directions from the front desk on where to find some coffee, lunch, and an ATM (the hostel only takes cash, in pesos). Lunch at a little restaurant on Charcas and Thames in Palermo (drawing a blank on the name) was the first of many but the empanadas here set the bar high and it hasn't been met yet, even a week later. After several attempts at ATMs (closed or no cash), we were able to withdrawl part of the payment and the hostel was kind enough to let us pay the rest later.

Returning at check in time, 2 PM, we were led upstairs to our private room which consisted of a desk, 2 twin beds, a nightstand, a sink and mirror, and a bathroom. It was just what we needed for the week. Coffee and water were available around the clock at no charge downstairs, as well as breakfast from 8-10 AM each morning. The only catch being you had to do your own dishes! Beer and bottled water were available for purchase. Outside alcohol drinks are not allowed. Next to our room on the 2nd floor was a common area with a table and couches. Downstairs was a common area with several tables, a TV, magazines, and tourist information, and downstairs was also a terrace with a couple of tables. The whole hostel had WiFi but if you hadn't brought your own computer there were 2 computers available for use. The sign read "everyone wants to use facebook, please limit time to 10 minutes!"

I would definitely recommend Hostel Suites Palermo.
It's a couple blocks from the green/d line Subte,
and walking distance to several Palermo restaurants and shopping. The staff was very friendly, the building is safe, and we had no problems!