la bomba de tiempo

On Monday night at about 8pm you walk up to the Konex Cultural Center, which is already throbbing from the music playing within, and get in the quick moving line behind the English speaking tourists swigging beer from a liter of Quilmes. Decline (or accept) a AR$10 pot brownie from the porteña dressed in a flowing skirt carrying a basket of her homemade desserts. Reach the ticket table and pay AR$20 to enter. Walk into a huge open area with no roof, a huge staircase sitting in the middle of the room, and crowds of people. Maneuver your way through the young hippy crowd, locals and foreigners alike, to get in line for a drink. The music is louder and more intense now that you're inside. Pay AR$15 for a huge cup (which equals 1 liter) of beer, then go to the end of the counter to pick it up. Making sure your group of friends stick together, work your way towards the stage, but not too close, or you'll get stuck in the mosh pit of sweaty dancers for the next 2 hours. Get your first glimpse of La Bomba de Tiempo, a drum group made up of talented percussionists, all wearing red and all playing their hearts out, under the direction of their conductor. Unable to resist the beat, you find your feet moving to the music and quickly the rest of your body follows. Until 10pm you get lost in the sound of the drums and the energy of the crowd.

La Bomba de Tiempo (Time Bomb) consists of 17 musicians, with Santiago Vazquez leading the group, although not all play every Monday night. A unique system of hand and body signals are used to direct the group, and improvision is often used. There is always a guest artist, and it can be anyone from a singer to a guitar player to an accordianist, accompanying them. As the Konex website says:

"Cada concierto es único e impredecible ya que depende de la interacción de todos los involucrados en el ritual: los músicos, el director, el público, el lugar, la acústica, los instrumentos, el clima y el momento."

"Each concert is unique and unpredictable because it depends on the interaction of everything involved in the ritual: the musicians, the director, the crowd, the venue, the acoustics, the instruments, the weather, and the moment." 

The Konex Cultural Center is located at Sarmiento 3131. La Bomba is every Monday night from 7-10pm, AR$20 to enter.

bookstore + cafe = amazing

I love books, which is why I also love bookstores. Even bookstores in another country where I can't read everything. I just love browsing the shelves, escaping into the different images, titles, characters... I could easily get lost in a bookstore and be happy.

I love coffee, which is why I also love cafes. And cafes are in abundance in Buenos Aires. Drinking coffee takes on a whole new meaning here, where to-go cups are rarely seen. It's about the experience of sitting in a cafe with a cafe con leche, a medialuna (croissant) or two, a good friend and/or a good book. The people watching possibilities are endless, and thanks to the low turnover in restaurants, you're free to sit as long as you want (or until you feel guilty taking up a table while people are waiting for one).

Join a bookstore with a cafe and a perfect combination is born. I don't mean a big Barnes & Noble with a Starbucks sitting in the center. I mean a cute little bookstore, with an equally cute little cafe tucked inside. A few of these combinations exist in Buenos Aires, including Libros del Pasaje, also known as Boutique del Libro. This particular shop sits in Palermo SoHo with high ceilings, floor to ceiling bookshelves complete with ladders to reach the higher shelves, a selection of CDs for sale, a laid back staff, a cafe along the back wall with a few tables and a couch, free WiFi (usually a given in this city, but still a plus!), a selection of alcoholic and non-alcoholic beverages, sweet and savory menu items, a seperate smoking room with a skylight, and funky but relaxing background music. Although the cafe is a bit on the pricier side (it is in Palermo, after all), all the other factors make for a cozy afternoon.

Libros del Pasaje is located at Thames 1762 and is open late everyday.

back in the usa

First stop in the States after 7.5 months away: Miami International Airport.

And so far… not much of a difference.

Everyone speaks Spanish and English, all the signs are in Spanish and English, it’s warm outside, it’s an airport…

BUT – I see English magazines (Time, Newsweek, Cosmo, People, Us!), American candy (Reese’s Peanut Butter Cups, Butterfingers!), Dunkin’ Donuts, and most importantly – bagels!

Although, I’m waiting until New Jersey for the real thing. I've waited this long, I can wait a few more hours...

caballeros live on

Chivalry is not dead in Argentina.

As a woman it's a given that if there's a man waiting for the bus or elevator with me, he will let me on first, no matter what. Most men here have even been raised to walk next to you on the street side of the sidewalk, which is something I've only seen my dad do up until now. Sure, men also never forget to stare you down, whistle, or catcall as you pass them, but as long as they hold the door for me, I have no problem with it.

Sometimes it's nice to be a little pampered ;)

restaurant service. or lack of.

If restaurant service in the states was like the service given here in Argentina, waiters would never make any propinas (tips). As it is, they only receive 8-10% here. But the difference is, they don't live off their tips; they make a higher hourly wage so the tips aren't as important. Which may be why the service isn't very... attentive.

There's no "How is everything," "Can I get you something else," etc. Don't expect the waiter to automatically refill your drink, and don't expect them to clear your plate as soon as you're done.

On the other hand, when you do need something, simply ask and you will receive it quickly. Take your time with your meal, and don't feel bad sitting back and continuing your conversation even when you're done eating. You won't feel rushed by having the check dropped off on your table before you've even decided whether you want dessert or not. In fact, you won't receive the check until you ask for it.

The Argentines may be on to something here. Like life, going out to eat should be relaxing and leisurely, an experience to enjoy, not something to be rushed through.

guest blogger: Stuck in the 50s ... Malbec style

GatoNegro. A balcony. Buenos Aires. Savoring good friends from abroad. This is DEFINITELY the life. Yes, it has been a while since an update has been made to this particular perspective of residence in the Argentina capital. (notice the alliteration - I paid attention in 8th grade). Until just recently, nothing earth-shattering has occurred in my otherwise monotonous porteña existence. A week ago a relatively unknown decided to stop in. His name: Paul. Enough said. One of the most amazing, influential people in my life. He convinces me to leave DC - at least, that it was a good idea, for me. And, in return, I was able to offer the same to him. He to Barcelona, albeit a bit later. So we have this connection. And I get to play host and tour guide for a while, which has been ... entertaining, to say the least. Wings on a wall, amazing Argentine steak, prevoleta like none other, super unhealthy yet tantalizingly delicious choripan, walks through Palermo and San Telmo and Congreso and parks and cafes and book stores, text messaging like you would not believe. A smile never escapes my face. It's been great to welcome a now good friend to a city I have come to accept as "home". He constantly comments on how well I know my surroundings and how comfortable I am here. And, it's true, when I think about it, I am comfortable here. I know my way around. Anything he has asked me, I've been able to come up with a relatively reasonable response. I am proud of myself, as I should be, he tells me. As a favor in return he puts up with my constant "so, in Barcelona, what is ...blah blah blah... like" compared to life here. Many differences, he has to say. But I like where I am. The food, the people, the wine, the vibrance. He makes me realize how much I have really gotten to know my new surroundings, how well I have managed on my own, meeting new people, living independently, tolerating Argentine casanovas, tackling check-out counters, confidently navigating bus routes. It's impressive, he says, of where I am here in Buenos Aires. And, you know, I agree.

It has been really nice having a friend from DC come to visit. To show around. To be "normal" around. To have mutual experiences and connections to reflect upon, and at the same time, understand what it is like to leave everything that you perceive as normal American living for a new, well, American life. And I am doing very well. I may not have all the answers. I may be enjoying my youth. But it's where I should be - eating too much ice cream, enjoying my oh-too-many-hours of leisure time, figuring out what is best for me, outside my comfort zone. In a new comfort zone.

Cats and walruses. Yeeeeessssss. Balloon hearts. Mate microphones. Wine on a balcony in a perfect, cloudless, sunny porteño evening. It's my life, and I love it.

Hasta pronto, familia y amigos. Todo bien. No se preocupen. Estoy en buenas manos.

Meghan

(About the author: Paul Contino is a respected and worldy traveler, making his way, one country at a time, through South America. You can find his perception of latin life in this particular article, as well as at http://paulcontino.wordpress.com. Kudos to his entertaining personality and unique and somewhat odd aproach to life!)

choripan (bondiola not pictured)

posing with the author

celebrate good times

Every time I turn around we're celebrating another holiday here in Argentina.

They start out similar to national holidays in the states, with Independence day (2 of them), flag day, Mother's Day (although it's in October), Father's Day, and Columbus Day (which I selfishly thought only the states celebrated. duh).

Then we get into the holidays that you might find on a random USA calendar, but no one really celebrates, like Secretary's Day and Teacher's Day. Then there are the holidays we just don't have in the states, like Friend's Day, Children's Day, Student's Day, Spring Day, and Animal's Day. Not only will you find these on the calendar, but you will find people fully celebrating them, and I love it.

On Friend's Day (Dia del Amigo) old friends get together for dinner, drinks, or mate. It's a nice reminder to thank your friends for being them, and an excuse to get together during busy schedules. It started in Argentina the day man walked the moon. Enrique Febbraro, an Argentine teacher, dentist, and musician, had a peaceful thought that on this day the entire world was united and were friends, and that the anniversary should be celebrated every year as Dia del Amigo. Unfortunately, Uruguay was the only other country to follow suit. I think I should bring it to the states.

Children's Day is celebrated much like Mother's & Father's Day; the family gets together on a Sunday and children receive gifts.

Student's Day and Spring Day always fall on the same date, September 21, the first day of Spring (Primavera). High school students have the day off and flock to the parks with their friends for mate, games, and food. The parks are more packed than usual, and picnics are going on everywhere. Individual flowers are sold in the streets because traditionally males are supposed to buy flowers for their female friends. Right around Dia de la Primavera, "Feliz Primavera" and flower decorations start showing up in every store front. They really take this beautiful season seriously here!


Although there are so many holidays I can barely keep track, I really admire the way Argentines celebrate the non-patriotic and -religious ones. Although we should celebrate our students, teachers, mothers, fathers, children, friends, secretaries, animals, and even seasons regularly, it's easy to forget. The more holidays the merrier - a little extra celebrating never hurt anyone!