Brooklyn Museum: In Conversation

Last Thursday evening I attended an event at the Brooklyn Museum, In Conversation: Sanford Biggers with Marcus Samuelsson and Mos Def. Mos Def was my initial draw to the event. Not only is he a talented hip hop artist from Brooklyn, but he happens to be in one of my favorite movies (you know, the kind of favorite movie you can watch over and over and it brings comfort rather than annoyance), Brown Sugar, which is just one notch on his acting belt. To be honest, I didn't know much about the other two men beforehand, but was interested in the theme of the discussion, which was how culture and society has shaped their work.

Sanford Biggers is an artist who happens to currently have an exhibit at the Brooklyn Museum, Sweet Funk. Marcus Samuelsson is an award winning chef who most recently opened the restaurant Red Rooster in Harlem. The three men are well known in their fields for not only their talent, but for being a part of their communities on different levels.

Although Sanford was meant to facilitate the discussion, the conversation gradually fell into a relaxed one among friends, as the three men already know each other well. Each very different in their art form and personality, I found all to be inspiring, not without a sense of humor, and grounded. Discussion topics flowed from how their work is impacted by their roots and childhood as well as issues in society, challenges they face, particulary as black men, the message they hope to send through their work, lessons learned, and future goals. The audience was responsive and passionate. There was a high level of comfort between everyone in the room.

Cookies and peanuts were passed around throughout the evening and not until the end of the discussion did we find out that Marcus had made these specifically for this event. The peanuts, which were spiced with wasabi, were a nod to Sanford's work, where Japanese influences can often be found. The cookies were a mix of vanilla and chocolate, made to reflect how one of their goals as artists is to reach all types of people and, hopefully, bring them together over their music, art, and food.

cuba

For all us Americans who have been wanting to go to Cuba and haven't found the loophole yet, although some of you have, Cuba is coming to us this Spring. A taste of this Caribbean island will visit New York through a Cuban Arts Festival called ¡Si Cuba! Dancing, music, paintings, photography, film, and more, will give New Yorkers a taste of the lively culture of Cuba, while taking a step in the right direction of forming a positive relationship between the states and the island.

argentina in spain

A little Argentine ♥ in Madrid...



mate



cooking Argentine meat with love

   

alfajores



map, futbol, obelisk

HOW TO play dudo

Dudo, which translates as "I doubt," is a Latin version of America's Liar's Dice, and has similarities to the popular card game Bullsh*t.

It has been known to keep my friends and I up for hours in Argentina, as we each continued to try and earn the informal title of "Dudo Master."

"Ok, just one more game," was commonly heard as the time got later and later.

Fun, competitive, and addicting are three words that I associate with dudo. A game played with sets of 5 dice, and at minimum 3 players, the rules are rather simple. It's keeping your head in the game and learning the best strategies that are key.

I'm going to dudo you!

Each player starts with 5 dice, rolling one to see who has the highest and therefore goes first. Different colored sets make it easier to differentiate between each players' hand. Plus, they look pretty :)

1. Shake up your dice and bring them down to the table, concealing them with your hands so other players can't see.

2. Based on what dice you rolled, start by verbalizing your guess of how many dice of one number are on the table, at a minimum. For example: There are 6 players X 5 dice each = 30 dice on the table. If you rolled 3 fives, chances are there are more than 3 fives on the table total, so you may guess that there are at least 4 fives showing, between your hand and the other players'. You don't want to start too low (because you risk it coming back around to you when things are too high) or too high (because people will call dudo on you). 

3. The next player can guess the same or higher amount, but must go higher in the dice number. They make this guess based on what other people have called and what they rolled in their own hand. For example: If you guessed 5 fives, the player after you can guess 5 sixes, 5 aces (ones), or 6 of anything, 7 of anything, 8 of anything, etc.

Dudo!

4. If at any point you believe that someone has made an incorrect guess, you call "dudo!" At this point, everyone must lift their hands and show their dice. If there are at least the number on the table that the other player called, you lose a dice. If there are less than they called, they lose a dice. Lost dice go in the middle of the table, so players can glance down and calculate the odds based on how many dice are left under people's hands.

5. The last person with any dice is the winner AKA Dudo Master. 

Smack talking, lying, and laughing are highly encouraged.

¡futbol!

Argentines eat, sleep, and breath futbol. Next to meat, which is a staple in the Argentine diet, it's safe to say that futbol is a top passion throughout the country. So, you can imagine how amazing it was to be in Argentina when the 2010 World Cup came around, especially with the national team being a participant again.

Argentina VS Spain through the window

Going to a game during the regular futbol season is excitement enough. Stadiums and the surrounding businesses don't even serve alcohol before, during, or after the match because fans are drunk enough on their love for the game. Even little kids are yelling obscenities at the other team's fans, everyone knows all of the chants, and no one stays seated. Fans are dedicated to their team from the time they are born. Futbol in Argentina is like a religion.

World Cup in Plaza San Martin

During the World Cup, futbol was everywhere everyday. Argentina made it to the quarter finals in the last World Cup, 2006, and with Diego Maradona, the controversial yet arguably best futbol player of all time, in the coaching position for 2010, expectations and excitement were high. Every TV you passed had a game on, evident by the unavoidable sound of vuvuzelas, and many bars set up big screens to show all the matches. A big screen was set up in Plaza San Martin to enjoy the tournament outside. Bars, restaurants, and cafes were packed with fans, locals and foreigners alike, to catch all 64 games of the tournament. Fans, including my friends and I, staked out spots throughout the city early, as to get good seats. Bosses gave their employees a break in the middle of the day so as not to miss any of the action. The buzz of futbol filled the air for the month of the World Cup and I was swept up right along with it.

Futbol & Meat

Unfortunately, Argentina didn't make it past the quarter finals this year, but their love of the game has never been more apparent... and there's always 2014. ¡Vamos Argentina!

catching up

Enjoying my last few months in Argentina, and readjusting and taking in everything I missed while away from the states, I have obviously slacked on One Way to BA.

Since my last post I spent about 3 more amazing months in Buenos Aires, complete with more steak, Malbec, cafes, asados, San Telmo market, teaching ESL, alfajores, helado, dudo, and trips to Brazil and Bariloche. Clearly I was too busy to write :)

Since I returned to the states in June, I have been based in New Jersey, reconnecting with friends and family, job searching, volunteering, enjoying American culture while at the same time missing Argentina, and traveling up and down the East Coast as well as to Bermuda, California, and Spain.

Falling back into the routines of home has been very easy and comforting, and I love living close to family and old friends again. However, even 6 months after leaving, I still find myself thinking about life and culture in Argentina, missing the feel of it all. When you have been fortunate enough to live in such an amazing place, creating unique memories that will last a lifetime, it is hard not to think about that time. Argentina will always hold a special place in my heart :)

housewarming gift

Friends who recently purchased an apartment in BA received this delicious meat from a friend and cooked it up for dinner. Only in Argentina would a big hunk of meat be a housewarming gift.

ñoquis del 29

Coming from an Italian family, some sort of pasta is almost always present at family get togethers. This includes gnocchis, little pasta pillows made from potatoes and flour. Every Christmas, my Grandpa made gnocchis from scratch for our family of 40. So, you can imagine my excitement when I learned of Gnocchi Day, a tradition here in Argentina.

Gnocchis (ñoquis in Spanish) are Italian, but made their way to Argentina with the Italian immigrants and their heavy influence on Argentina. The 29th of every month, restaurants serve gnocchi specials, pasta shops advertise their gnocchis, and families make them at home for dinner. This tradition comes from when payday was the 30th or the 31st so by the end of the month you had little food left in your pantry, and little money left in your wallet. Gnocchis were the obvious soluton, since the main ingredients are potato and flour, both which are very inexpensive. Seasoned grandmothers can easily and quickly throw this dish together for their family. They are made by mashing boiled potatoes, mixing them with flour, maybe a little egg and salt, rolling them out into long snakes and cutting them into little pieces. They're cooked in boiling water like other pastas. Here, variations of the recipe are popular, such as pumpkin or spinach.

As the 29th grew closer this month, I decided to have friends over to celebrate Gnocchi day. Having never made these before (does making the fork imprint after my grandpa has already done all the hard work count?) and promising a dozen friends gnocchis, I was taking a big risk. With my grandpa's recipe in hand, I began the long process.

On the 27th I boiled 1.5 kilos (a little over 3 pounds) of potatoes, peeled them, and mashed them with a fork. I covered them and put them in the fridge overnight.

The next morning I took out the potatoes, flour, an egg, and some salt. I had been dreading this next step ever since I decided to go on this cooking adventure. Today I had to mix the flour and potatoes. Too much flour and the gnocchis would be too heavy. Too little and they would fall apart in the water. I had no scale (the recipe calls for 45% of the weight of the potatoes) so had to do it by feel. I threw in some flour, an egg, and some salt, and started kneading it all together by hand. A common mistake is to keep adding and keep adding flour. But I kept adding and I kept adding. The dough was really sticky and I didn't think that felt right, but finally it seemed to reach the "right" consistency.. not that I really knew what that was supposed to be! Next, I took a handful of dough at a time and rolled it out on a floured surface, made some fork imprints, and cut it into little pieces. I transferred the fragile pieces to a floured baking sheet, and stuck them in the freezer. Between making such a big batch and it being my first time, this whole process took me a few hours. My back began aching and my wrist hurt for the rest of the day, but finally I rolled out the last bit of dough.

With all the gnoccis in the freezer until dinner time the next night, I had no idea if they were going to come out right. Would there be too much flour, causing them to sink in my guest's stomach? Or too little flour and they would fall apart in the water? The next night, with hungry guests standing by, and with my sauce and meatballs bubbling away, I boiled salted water and dropped the first batch of gnocchis in. As the recipe said, when they float they are done. I drained them, poured homemade sauce over them, called my guests in, and waited for the first bite.

Success! Everyone loved them. Or I just have really nice friends! Either way, I was proud of my cooking endeavor, although next month when the 29th rolls around I'll be going to a restaurant to celebrate!

la bomba de tiempo

On Monday night at about 8pm you walk up to the Konex Cultural Center, which is already throbbing from the music playing within, and get in the quick moving line behind the English speaking tourists swigging beer from a liter of Quilmes. Decline (or accept) a AR$10 pot brownie from the porteña dressed in a flowing skirt carrying a basket of her homemade desserts. Reach the ticket table and pay AR$20 to enter. Walk into a huge open area with no roof, a huge staircase sitting in the middle of the room, and crowds of people. Maneuver your way through the young hippy crowd, locals and foreigners alike, to get in line for a drink. The music is louder and more intense now that you're inside. Pay AR$15 for a huge cup (which equals 1 liter) of beer, then go to the end of the counter to pick it up. Making sure your group of friends stick together, work your way towards the stage, but not too close, or you'll get stuck in the mosh pit of sweaty dancers for the next 2 hours. Get your first glimpse of La Bomba de Tiempo, a drum group made up of talented percussionists, all wearing red and all playing their hearts out, under the direction of their conductor. Unable to resist the beat, you find your feet moving to the music and quickly the rest of your body follows. Until 10pm you get lost in the sound of the drums and the energy of the crowd.

La Bomba de Tiempo (Time Bomb) consists of 17 musicians, with Santiago Vazquez leading the group, although not all play every Monday night. A unique system of hand and body signals are used to direct the group, and improvision is often used. There is always a guest artist, and it can be anyone from a singer to a guitar player to an accordianist, accompanying them. As the Konex website says:

"Cada concierto es único e impredecible ya que depende de la interacción de todos los involucrados en el ritual: los músicos, el director, el público, el lugar, la acústica, los instrumentos, el clima y el momento."

"Each concert is unique and unpredictable because it depends on the interaction of everything involved in the ritual: the musicians, the director, the crowd, the venue, the acoustics, the instruments, the weather, and the moment." 

The Konex Cultural Center is located at Sarmiento 3131. La Bomba is every Monday night from 7-10pm, AR$20 to enter.

bookstore + cafe = amazing

I love books, which is why I also love bookstores. Even bookstores in another country where I can't read everything. I just love browsing the shelves, escaping into the different images, titles, characters... I could easily get lost in a bookstore and be happy.

I love coffee, which is why I also love cafes. And cafes are in abundance in Buenos Aires. Drinking coffee takes on a whole new meaning here, where to-go cups are rarely seen. It's about the experience of sitting in a cafe with a cafe con leche, a medialuna (croissant) or two, a good friend and/or a good book. The people watching possibilities are endless, and thanks to the low turnover in restaurants, you're free to sit as long as you want (or until you feel guilty taking up a table while people are waiting for one).

Join a bookstore with a cafe and a perfect combination is born. I don't mean a big Barnes & Noble with a Starbucks sitting in the center. I mean a cute little bookstore, with an equally cute little cafe tucked inside. A few of these combinations exist in Buenos Aires, including Libros del Pasaje, also known as Boutique del Libro. This particular shop sits in Palermo SoHo with high ceilings, floor to ceiling bookshelves complete with ladders to reach the higher shelves, a selection of CDs for sale, a laid back staff, a cafe along the back wall with a few tables and a couch, free WiFi (usually a given in this city, but still a plus!), a selection of alcoholic and non-alcoholic beverages, sweet and savory menu items, a seperate smoking room with a skylight, and funky but relaxing background music. Although the cafe is a bit on the pricier side (it is in Palermo, after all), all the other factors make for a cozy afternoon.

Libros del Pasaje is located at Thames 1762 and is open late everyday.

back in the usa

First stop in the States after 7.5 months away: Miami International Airport.

And so far… not much of a difference.

Everyone speaks Spanish and English, all the signs are in Spanish and English, it’s warm outside, it’s an airport…

BUT – I see English magazines (Time, Newsweek, Cosmo, People, Us!), American candy (Reese’s Peanut Butter Cups, Butterfingers!), Dunkin’ Donuts, and most importantly – bagels!

Although, I’m waiting until New Jersey for the real thing. I've waited this long, I can wait a few more hours...

caballeros live on

Chivalry is not dead in Argentina.

As a woman it's a given that if there's a man waiting for the bus or elevator with me, he will let me on first, no matter what. Most men here have even been raised to walk next to you on the street side of the sidewalk, which is something I've only seen my dad do up until now. Sure, men also never forget to stare you down, whistle, or catcall as you pass them, but as long as they hold the door for me, I have no problem with it.

Sometimes it's nice to be a little pampered ;)

restaurant service. or lack of.

If restaurant service in the states was like the service given here in Argentina, waiters would never make any propinas (tips). As it is, they only receive 8-10% here. But the difference is, they don't live off their tips; they make a higher hourly wage so the tips aren't as important. Which may be why the service isn't very... attentive.

There's no "How is everything," "Can I get you something else," etc. Don't expect the waiter to automatically refill your drink, and don't expect them to clear your plate as soon as you're done.

On the other hand, when you do need something, simply ask and you will receive it quickly. Take your time with your meal, and don't feel bad sitting back and continuing your conversation even when you're done eating. You won't feel rushed by having the check dropped off on your table before you've even decided whether you want dessert or not. In fact, you won't receive the check until you ask for it.

The Argentines may be on to something here. Like life, going out to eat should be relaxing and leisurely, an experience to enjoy, not something to be rushed through.

guest blogger: Stuck in the 50s ... Malbec style

GatoNegro. A balcony. Buenos Aires. Savoring good friends from abroad. This is DEFINITELY the life. Yes, it has been a while since an update has been made to this particular perspective of residence in the Argentina capital. (notice the alliteration - I paid attention in 8th grade). Until just recently, nothing earth-shattering has occurred in my otherwise monotonous porteña existence. A week ago a relatively unknown decided to stop in. His name: Paul. Enough said. One of the most amazing, influential people in my life. He convinces me to leave DC - at least, that it was a good idea, for me. And, in return, I was able to offer the same to him. He to Barcelona, albeit a bit later. So we have this connection. And I get to play host and tour guide for a while, which has been ... entertaining, to say the least. Wings on a wall, amazing Argentine steak, prevoleta like none other, super unhealthy yet tantalizingly delicious choripan, walks through Palermo and San Telmo and Congreso and parks and cafes and book stores, text messaging like you would not believe. A smile never escapes my face. It's been great to welcome a now good friend to a city I have come to accept as "home". He constantly comments on how well I know my surroundings and how comfortable I am here. And, it's true, when I think about it, I am comfortable here. I know my way around. Anything he has asked me, I've been able to come up with a relatively reasonable response. I am proud of myself, as I should be, he tells me. As a favor in return he puts up with my constant "so, in Barcelona, what is ...blah blah blah... like" compared to life here. Many differences, he has to say. But I like where I am. The food, the people, the wine, the vibrance. He makes me realize how much I have really gotten to know my new surroundings, how well I have managed on my own, meeting new people, living independently, tolerating Argentine casanovas, tackling check-out counters, confidently navigating bus routes. It's impressive, he says, of where I am here in Buenos Aires. And, you know, I agree.

It has been really nice having a friend from DC come to visit. To show around. To be "normal" around. To have mutual experiences and connections to reflect upon, and at the same time, understand what it is like to leave everything that you perceive as normal American living for a new, well, American life. And I am doing very well. I may not have all the answers. I may be enjoying my youth. But it's where I should be - eating too much ice cream, enjoying my oh-too-many-hours of leisure time, figuring out what is best for me, outside my comfort zone. In a new comfort zone.

Cats and walruses. Yeeeeessssss. Balloon hearts. Mate microphones. Wine on a balcony in a perfect, cloudless, sunny porteño evening. It's my life, and I love it.

Hasta pronto, familia y amigos. Todo bien. No se preocupen. Estoy en buenas manos.

Meghan

(About the author: Paul Contino is a respected and worldy traveler, making his way, one country at a time, through South America. You can find his perception of latin life in this particular article, as well as at http://paulcontino.wordpress.com. Kudos to his entertaining personality and unique and somewhat odd aproach to life!)

choripan (bondiola not pictured)

posing with the author

celebrate good times

Every time I turn around we're celebrating another holiday here in Argentina.

They start out similar to national holidays in the states, with Independence day (2 of them), flag day, Mother's Day (although it's in October), Father's Day, and Columbus Day (which I selfishly thought only the states celebrated. duh).

Then we get into the holidays that you might find on a random USA calendar, but no one really celebrates, like Secretary's Day and Teacher's Day. Then there are the holidays we just don't have in the states, like Friend's Day, Children's Day, Student's Day, Spring Day, and Animal's Day. Not only will you find these on the calendar, but you will find people fully celebrating them, and I love it.

On Friend's Day (Dia del Amigo) old friends get together for dinner, drinks, or mate. It's a nice reminder to thank your friends for being them, and an excuse to get together during busy schedules. It started in Argentina the day man walked the moon. Enrique Febbraro, an Argentine teacher, dentist, and musician, had a peaceful thought that on this day the entire world was united and were friends, and that the anniversary should be celebrated every year as Dia del Amigo. Unfortunately, Uruguay was the only other country to follow suit. I think I should bring it to the states.

Children's Day is celebrated much like Mother's & Father's Day; the family gets together on a Sunday and children receive gifts.

Student's Day and Spring Day always fall on the same date, September 21, the first day of Spring (Primavera). High school students have the day off and flock to the parks with their friends for mate, games, and food. The parks are more packed than usual, and picnics are going on everywhere. Individual flowers are sold in the streets because traditionally males are supposed to buy flowers for their female friends. Right around Dia de la Primavera, "Feliz Primavera" and flower decorations start showing up in every store front. They really take this beautiful season seriously here!


Although there are so many holidays I can barely keep track, I really admire the way Argentines celebrate the non-patriotic and -religious ones. Although we should celebrate our students, teachers, mothers, fathers, children, friends, secretaries, animals, and even seasons regularly, it's easy to forget. The more holidays the merrier - a little extra celebrating never hurt anyone!

tango

Tango is THE dance of Buenos Aires. An intimate dance which uses a lot of improvisation, it originated here in BA and the tradition still carries on. Going a day without seeing at least one tango image, store, or performance is almost impossible!

One of the few things open on Sundays is the San Telmo Market. Since almost everything else is closed, it seems most of the city flocks here to pass Sunday afternoon. We stroll, shop, eat, and what else, watch tango.

easy like sunday morning

A Sunday in Buenos Aires, where almost everything is shut down..

feliz

According to a recent Forbes article, Buenos Aires is (perceived to be) the 10th happiest city in the world. Rio de Janeiro topped off the list at number 1, and all those in between are in Australia, Europe, Brazil again, and only one in the US (take a wild guess which one).

The reason given for BA making the list is rather disappointing:

"Argentina's largest city makes the cut in part for its relative proximity to the first city on this list. "It's a slightly diluted version of Rio," says Anholt. "I suspect people know far less about Buenos Aires than Rio. They may not know it's in Argentina, but they know it's in Latin America.""

I don't doubt that most people don't know too much about Buenos Aires, but I'd like to think it's perceived to be one of the happiest cities for reasons other than just its proximity to Rio! My friends and I can certainly list quite a few :)
Either way, I'm proud that my current home made the list.

nightlife

BA is home to a very relaxed lifestyle, which has its pros (obvious) and cons (people are late, everything is a process, etc). One result of the relaxed attitude is the late nightlife. We drink coffee when people in the states are preparing dinner. We eat dinner when American families are going to bed. And we get to the bar or club when bartenders in the states are calling last call.

By now I am used to taking my time. Why do I need to rush home from work to eat dinner at 6? I can get more done, relax, take my time, and ease into everything. It just makes more sense. I still can't handle the late club nights every time, but since I love dancing the night away, I make it through more often than not.

Here's a better idea of the comparison between a typical Friday night in DC and one in BA:

DC: Finish work at 5 or 6 PM. Have already been planning the night with my friends so I know exactly what I'm wearing and where I have to be at what time.

BA: Finish teaching my last class in the afternoon, have coffee around 5 or 6 PM,
and have probably finished lunch with friends not long before that.

DC: Rush home from work, jump in the shower, make a very quick dinner to eat while getting ready. Must be at X's house at 8:30PM and still have to pick up drinks along the way

BA: Discuss the night's plans with friends. It's decided we'll have the "pre"
(read: pre-game) at X's apartment around 11PM, and we have a club in mind.
In the meantime, I go home and relax.

DC: Make it to X's house late - quarter of 9 - because the metro had delays. We want to make it to the bar around 11PM, so enjoy drinks and company until then, possibly some beer pong.

BA: Cook dinner around 10PM and then get in the shower.
Make my way out of the apartment to catch the bus around 11:30PM.
Get to X's place and I'm the first one.

DC: Get on the metro around 10:30PM and arrive at the bars around 11.
They're starting to fill up and some people are lingering from happy hour.

BA: The rest of my friends start showing up to the apartment shortly after me.
Since we didn't pick up beer along the way, we just have it delivered.
A few rounds of dudo are necessary.

DC: We dance, drink, dance some more, and get kicked out of the bar after last call, around 2 or 2:30AM. Jumbo slice is calling our name, so we get pizza and eat it in the cab on the way home. Asleep by 3:30AM.

BA: At 2AM we leave the apartment to get to the club.
We need to be in by 2:30 to avoid the entrada (cover charge).
On the way we pick up empanadas porque tenemos hambre.

BA: We get to the club at 2:30AM and it's virtually empty. It starts to fill up around 3 or so. We dance, drink, dance some more.
"Que hora es?" someone asks. 4AM, it's early still.

BA: Finally, at 6AM, after our fill of nonstop dancing, we willingly leave the club. It's still packed and will be for awhile longer, but we're tired. We get in cabs and head home, maybe catching the sunrise along the way. Asleep by 7AM.

Some nights I would prefer the night out in DC, but for now... when in Rome!

spanish in argentina

Argentine Spanish is not easy. Even native Spanish speakers from other countries sometimes have trouble understanding the Argentines. Coming here I had to throw out some of what I learned in high school Spanish, such as:

• "You'll never need to use vos, don't even study it." You'll never need to use vos... except in Argentina.
  

• Pollo, me llamo, tortilla... all pronounced with the ll as y, right? wrong. ll = sh.

Add to that some unfamiliar vocabulary (ex: strawberry = frutilla, not fresa), it's no surprise that after 4 months of living here I find it easier to speak with my Colombian roommate of 1 month than anyone on the streets of BA. I have fully adjusted to pronouncing the ll the Argentine way, but understanding it is not always easy, and I'm still using tu instead of vos. Of course, I do learn more and more everyday, and am thankful that I am (almost) fully immersed in the language.

Like a lot of other cities, BA has its own dictionary of slang, but unlike a lot of cities, I think it's thicker than normal. Courtesy of my fellow-DC-friend-who-also-quit-his-job-to-move-abroad, here is a guide to some BA slang.