fall. in may.

adjusting to the opposite seasons, but still enjoying fall

the best empanadas in ba.. so far

I've only been here for 3 weeks so obviously I haven't tried all the empanadas the city has to offer, and there are a lot, and usually at around AR$3 each (less than US$1, how can you beat that?) But out of all I've tried so far, Tonno Pizza & Cafe in Palermo are by far the best. Empanadas at Tonno were actually my very first meal in BA and they set the bar high. Some I've tried have been lacking in the filling or were obviously frozen and stuck in the microwave in the back.




Not Tonno's. Deliciously flaky, browned, and full of... filling. I've tried the pollo (chicken), espinacas con queso (spinach with cheese), jamon y queso (ham and cheese), and queso y cebolla (onion and cheese). Obviously cheese is a key factor to deliciousness.




Taste testing other empanadas won't be a problem..
but until I find ones as good as Tonno's, I'll keep returning..

Tonno Pizza & Cafe is located at the corner of
Thames & Charcas, at Charcas 4400

submarino

how it arrives: hot milk and a chocolate bar (this one is even shaped like a submarine!)

stir it up

enjoy the delicious Argentine hot chocolate

This one happens to be from the cafe right on my corner, Halina Cafe

breaking plates

When we decided to go to dinner Friday night, who knew breaking things was on the menu??

Although we called to delay our reservation at least twice, Mykonos welcomed us when we showed up at midnight. The first thing I noticed, besides the murals of Greek on the wall and the staff dressed in costumes, were broken plates on the ground. We figured we had missed the fun but when we sat down, they handed us each a plate. Not for our appetizers... but to break during their dance show. A few minutes later, the lights dimmed and 2 of the servers worked their way into a dance right in the middle of the dining room floor. This was our cue to get up and break some plates! Opa!



Of course the food was also a highlight of the evening at Mykonos.. the hummus with the warm pita was delicious, as was the tabule, pasta, stuffed grape leaves, and my pita a la pizza - pizza with feta, tapenade, cured ham, and basil.

Mykonos is located at Olleros 1752

a rare thing in this city

stop sign

cementerio de la recoleta

Speaking of the Recoleta Cemetary, my dad and I did have the pleasure of briefly visiting it last week. Walking along the outside, it's impossible to see what you're headed towards, with the high walls blocking any glimpse of the cemetary. Once inside, prepare to get lost wandering around this beautiful mini-city of tombs and statues. If you follow the crowd like we did, you'll find Evita's grave, probably the most famous one there, but take time to check out the rest of the cemetary also.

If you're here on the weekend, check out the Feria Artesanal Plaza Intendente Alvear, a market with crafts, jewelry, souvenirs, food, and more.




The Cemetary is located at Junin 1790 in Recoleta. Admission is free, but there's a charge if you wish to purchase the guidebook. The Feria is located right outside the Cemetary's entrance.

don't cry for me argentina

Before Museo Evita was opened in 2002 in Buenos Aires by Eva (or Evita's, as she was affectionately called) Peron's grandniece, the mansion had been a shelter for homeless women and children, Hogar de Tránsito. As Eva spent many of her last years on projects dedicated to helping the less fortunate citizens of Argentina, it only seems fitting that this is where the museum dedicated to her is now housed.

Through photographs, original artifacts, videos, and quotes, the museum depicts Evita's short life, beginning with her early poverty filled childhood in a Buenos Aires province. Once a teenager, Evita traveled to Buenos Aires to not only escape poverty but to also pursue an acting career. From here she gained great success as a radio actress and even had a short film career.

Walking through room after room we learn of Evita's relationship with Juan Peron and her move into politics as the First Lady of Argentina. From a poor childhood with no formal education, and coming right out of an acting career, she had her fair share of critics but quickly became a popular figure in Argentina. With her own money, Eva started the Eva Peron Foundation in 1948. Through a video, we learn of the many beneficial programs Evita initiated for Argentine citizens in need. She also had a great impact on women in politics, with a strong role in gaining Argentine women the right to vote.

In 1951, Evita was diagnosed with cancer and died a year later at the young age of 33. A video goes into detail of the people's mourning, her memorial, missing corpse, and final resting place in Recoleta Cemetary, here in Buenos Aires. I visited Recoleta Cemetary last week, shortly after her birthday of May 7th, and her grave was covered in flowers, showing that even to this day Evita remains a powerful icon and influence for the Argentine people.


Never having seen Madonna's film version of the musical of Evita's life, I honestly didn't know much about Evita. It was really interesting to see original artifacts such as newspaper articles, books, and even outfits worn by her. I loved learning about all of the good she did through her charity. Luckily, there were English translations of the descriptions and quotes, which certainly helped me be able to leave having learned a few things!

Museo Evita is located at Lafinur 2988 in Palermo. Admission is AR$12, and it's open Tuesday - Sunday from 11am - 7pm. The museum also holds a gift shop, library, and restaurant, all with different hours. Definitely worth a visit!

This article can also be seen on Argentina's Travel Guide.