tigre

A quick and cheap train ride away lies Tigre, a small town on the delta and an easy escape from the hustle and bustle of the city. Opt for the Tren de La Costa on the way there for a more scenic route, at AR$12 one way. On the way back take the Mitre Line, which ends in Retiro, for AR$0.80 one way.

Once in Tigre enjoy a walk along the river, browse the market, and stop for lunch. Definitely take a tour of the Delta (one of the little stands along the river offering tours for about AR$22 per person is perfectly safe, and a better deal than the tourist agencies which charge almost double that) where in a 1hr boat ride you will learn about the history of the town and see how people live on the water, with boats being used for supermarkets and school buses.

If there's time, spend a few hours in Parque de la Costa, the amusement park of Buenos Aires. South America doesn't really "do" amusement parks, so don't expect 6 Flags, Busch Gardens, or any of the other usual suspects we have in the states. Ticket prices vary depending on the day and what is included, but range from AR$25 - AR$80 per person. Once inside everything is fairly close together, despite the deceiving map, making the park look much bigger than it is. For such a small park, there are some good rides, including 2 upside down rollercoasters, a log flume, a wooden rollercoaster, swings, and some extreme sports you pay extra for. Food options don't go much further than burgers, hot dogs, fries, and ice cream. Overall it's clean, fun, and a good value.

Parque de la Costa is open Tuesday - Sunday from 11am - 9pm. Tren de La Costa station is located on Av. Maipu 2300, in Olivos.

la bomba de tiempo

On Monday night at about 8pm you walk up to the Konex Cultural Center, which is already throbbing from the music playing within, and get in the quick moving line behind the English speaking tourists swigging beer from a liter of Quilmes. Decline (or accept) a AR$10 pot brownie from the porteña dressed in a flowing skirt carrying a basket of her homemade desserts. Reach the ticket table and pay AR$20 to enter. Walk into a huge open area with no roof, a huge staircase sitting in the middle of the room, and crowds of people. Maneuver your way through the young hippy crowd, locals and foreigners alike, to get in line for a drink. The music is louder and more intense now that you're inside. Pay AR$15 for a huge cup (which equals 1 liter) of beer, then go to the end of the counter to pick it up. Making sure your group of friends stick together, work your way towards the stage, but not too close, or you'll get stuck in the mosh pit of sweaty dancers for the next 2 hours. Get your first glimpse of La Bomba de Tiempo, a drum group made up of talented percussionists, all wearing red and all playing their hearts out, under the direction of their conductor. Unable to resist the beat, you find your feet moving to the music and quickly the rest of your body follows. Until 10pm you get lost in the sound of the drums and the energy of the crowd.

La Bomba de Tiempo (Time Bomb) consists of 17 musicians, with Santiago Vazquez leading the group, although not all play every Monday night. A unique system of hand and body signals are used to direct the group, and improvision is often used. There is always a guest artist, and it can be anyone from a singer to a guitar player to an accordianist, accompanying them. As the Konex website says:

"Cada concierto es único e impredecible ya que depende de la interacción de todos los involucrados en el ritual: los músicos, el director, el público, el lugar, la acústica, los instrumentos, el clima y el momento."

"Each concert is unique and unpredictable because it depends on the interaction of everything involved in the ritual: the musicians, the director, the crowd, the venue, the acoustics, the instruments, the weather, and the moment." 

The Konex Cultural Center is located at Sarmiento 3131. La Bomba is every Monday night from 7-10pm, AR$20 to enter.

bookstore + cafe = amazing

I love books, which is why I also love bookstores. Even bookstores in another country where I can't read everything. I just love browsing the shelves, escaping into the different images, titles, characters... I could easily get lost in a bookstore and be happy.

I love coffee, which is why I also love cafes. And cafes are in abundance in Buenos Aires. Drinking coffee takes on a whole new meaning here, where to-go cups are rarely seen. It's about the experience of sitting in a cafe with a cafe con leche, a medialuna (croissant) or two, a good friend and/or a good book. The people watching possibilities are endless, and thanks to the low turnover in restaurants, you're free to sit as long as you want (or until you feel guilty taking up a table while people are waiting for one).

Join a bookstore with a cafe and a perfect combination is born. I don't mean a big Barnes & Noble with a Starbucks sitting in the center. I mean a cute little bookstore, with an equally cute little cafe tucked inside. A few of these combinations exist in Buenos Aires, including Libros del Pasaje, also known as Boutique del Libro. This particular shop sits in Palermo SoHo with high ceilings, floor to ceiling bookshelves complete with ladders to reach the higher shelves, a selection of CDs for sale, a laid back staff, a cafe along the back wall with a few tables and a couch, free WiFi (usually a given in this city, but still a plus!), a selection of alcoholic and non-alcoholic beverages, sweet and savory menu items, a seperate smoking room with a skylight, and funky but relaxing background music. Although the cafe is a bit on the pricier side (it is in Palermo, after all), all the other factors make for a cozy afternoon.

Libros del Pasaje is located at Thames 1762 and is open late everyday.