As I mentioned here, it's very easy for a foreigner to find and move into an apartment in BA. With just your suitcases, a few extra belongings you may have picked up along the way, and no leases or contracts, a move can take less than an hour, as opposed to the day long process it becomes in the states.
Recently I moved out of the apartment I had been in for my first 2 months in BA, and into a new one not far away. I had what I came to BA with - 2 suitcases and a backpack, all very full - plus a few shopping bags of groceries and extra belongings that wouldn't fit into my luggage, and a mirror and a fan I had picked up from friends moving back to the states. My landlady let me out of the building and said bye as I moved everything to the sidewalk where I was planning on hailing a cab. For about 5 minutes I was standing on the curb alone, attempting to hail a cab, homeless, no keys to any apartment, with all my belongings at my feet. It turned out to be the easiest move I've made (no furniture, minimal unpacking time, no leases to sign) but that 5 minutes definitely also made it one of the most comical moves I've ever made. All part of the experience!
July 23, 2009
July 11, 2009
HOW TO not get hit by a bus in ba
...and other transportation lessons learned.
Pedestrians: As noted here, stop signs are rare in the capital city of Argentina. In place of one there may be a speed bump to prevent full speed crashes, but more often than not avoiding accidents takes luck and courage. With several cars coming from both (as opposed to 4, since most streets are one way) directions, who has the right of way? The speeding cab, the speeding bus, or you, the pedestrian on foot? In the states this answer is easy: the pedestrian. Here in Buenos Aires, not so much. Try expecting traffic to stop for you (or at least slow down) when you cross the street and instead be faced with a blaring horn and a heavy foot on the gas pedal. I hope you have your running shoes on. And health insurance. Your best bet when crossing the street is to wait until one way is clear, and cars coming from the other way are slowing down for the speed bump. Another option is to run across in the same direction of whichever cars have decided to go. And I say "decided" because there doesn't seem to be any method of taking turns.
Cabs: Available cabs will have their red "Libre" light on in the front windshield. Cabs are fairly easy to flag down, especially on main streets. There will always be a line of them slowly driving past bus stops in hopes that people will get impatient waiting for the bus or realize they don't have enough monedas (coins). Pay attention to where you're going so you don't get taken for a ride, especially if you're obviously a foreigner, which is almost always obvious even if you speak the language. As far as tipping, just round up to the next peso. Take the above no-stop-sign-lesson into account and wear your seatbelt!
Subte: With all the lines starting downtown and branching out into the city, the subway layout is not the most practical, but luckily there will be a bus to take you anywhere the subte doesn't (see below). One-way on the subte is AR$1.10, no matter where you're going. There are no machines to buy your ticket from, but instead you go up to the ticket window, and bills are accepted as well as coins (but save your monedas if you can). Specify how many viajes (trips) you want and usually receive one ticket for each. Once you enter the platform you don't need your ticket anymore. Trains usually arrive within a few minutes of each other. Especially during rush hour expect to be packed like sardines in the hot cars. Make sure to watch your bag, as this can be a prime spot for pickpocketers.
Bus: The bus is tricky and takes some time to master. First things first: buy a Guia T, which is the bus guide and also a map of the city, at any newsstand. Extremely intimidating at first with all the maps, lines, and hundreds of routes, it actually makes perfect sense once you understand it. There are bus routes
down almost every street and luckily they run all night, since the subte closes at 10PM. There's no schedule since you never have to wait more than a few minutes for one. Buses only take coins and there's currently a coin shortage in the city, hence all the talk of saving monedas above. Get on and either specify your direction to the driver, or say "uno, viente" or AR$1.20, which is the standard fair. If you're going less than 10 blocks it's AR$1.10.. but I'd save your coins and walk. Put your coins in the machine and retrieve your ticket. If you're the last one on and there's a line for the machine, step in as far as you can because the driver will continue on even with the door open, as long as no one is still waiting on the curb. When your stop is coming up hit the button that says "timbre" and wait near the exit because the bus will only stop for a couple seconds, if that. While on the bus, hold on tight. Like the rest of transportation in BA, it's a bumpy ride.
Pedestrians: As noted here, stop signs are rare in the capital city of Argentina. In place of one there may be a speed bump to prevent full speed crashes, but more often than not avoiding accidents takes luck and courage. With several cars coming from both (as opposed to 4, since most streets are one way) directions, who has the right of way? The speeding cab, the speeding bus, or you, the pedestrian on foot? In the states this answer is easy: the pedestrian. Here in Buenos Aires, not so much. Try expecting traffic to stop for you (or at least slow down) when you cross the street and instead be faced with a blaring horn and a heavy foot on the gas pedal. I hope you have your running shoes on. And health insurance. Your best bet when crossing the street is to wait until one way is clear, and cars coming from the other way are slowing down for the speed bump. Another option is to run across in the same direction of whichever cars have decided to go. And I say "decided" because there doesn't seem to be any method of taking turns.Cabs: Available cabs will have their red "Libre" light on in the front windshield. Cabs are fairly easy to flag down, especially on main streets. There will always be a line of them slowly driving past bus stops in hopes that people will get impatient waiting for the bus or realize they don't have enough monedas (coins). Pay attention to where you're going so you don't get taken for a ride, especially if you're obviously a foreigner, which is almost always obvious even if you speak the language. As far as tipping, just round up to the next peso. Take the above no-stop-sign-lesson into account and wear your seatbelt!
Subte: With all the lines starting downtown and branching out into the city, the subway layout is not the most practical, but luckily there will be a bus to take you anywhere the subte doesn't (see below). One-way on the subte is AR$1.10, no matter where you're going. There are no machines to buy your ticket from, but instead you go up to the ticket window, and bills are accepted as well as coins (but save your monedas if you can). Specify how many viajes (trips) you want and usually receive one ticket for each. Once you enter the platform you don't need your ticket anymore. Trains usually arrive within a few minutes of each other. Especially during rush hour expect to be packed like sardines in the hot cars. Make sure to watch your bag, as this can be a prime spot for pickpocketers.Bus: The bus is tricky and takes some time to master. First things first: buy a Guia T, which is the bus guide and also a map of the city, at any newsstand. Extremely intimidating at first with all the maps, lines, and hundreds of routes, it actually makes perfect sense once you understand it. There are bus routes
down almost every street and luckily they run all night, since the subte closes at 10PM. There's no schedule since you never have to wait more than a few minutes for one. Buses only take coins and there's currently a coin shortage in the city, hence all the talk of saving monedas above. Get on and either specify your direction to the driver, or say "uno, viente" or AR$1.20, which is the standard fair. If you're going less than 10 blocks it's AR$1.10.. but I'd save your coins and walk. Put your coins in the machine and retrieve your ticket. If you're the last one on and there's a line for the machine, step in as far as you can because the driver will continue on even with the door open, as long as no one is still waiting on the curb. When your stop is coming up hit the button that says "timbre" and wait near the exit because the bus will only stop for a couple seconds, if that. While on the bus, hold on tight. Like the rest of transportation in BA, it's a bumpy ride.
July 9, 2009
4th of july in buenos aires
2009's 4th of July was unlike any other I've experienced. For starters, it's winter. When has America ever celebrated it's independence in 50 degree weather? Second, no BBQs. Third, no fireworks. Fourth, no parades. And last, minimal red, white, and blue. If there was any, it was probably worn by accident. The US Embassy in BA did reach out and make an attempt to remind us of the meaning behind the 4th of July while expressing their understanding that it may be difficult to celebrate without the traditions we're used to. There may have been some celebratory events geared towards Americans wanting to celebrate their country's independence, but most were canceled because of the swine flu.
With none of our normal customs available, what better alternative way to celebrate than eat dinner at TGIFridays? Can't get much more American than that in BA...
With none of our normal customs available, what better alternative way to celebrate than eat dinner at TGIFridays? Can't get much more American than that in BA...
July 2, 2009
apparently i write a lot about food...
Here's something different...
The swine flu is rapidly spreading in Argentina, especially in Buenos Aires. Schools are closing early for winter break, and some public offices are closing for 15 days to avoid any more spreading during what they expect to be the peak of the outbreak. Several other precautions are being taken around Buenos Aires and the rest of the country.
The health minister's press statement of "'Five percent of the swine flu cases can be serious,' and that the rest of the cases normally heal without the need to hospitalize the patient," is reassuring since it's near impossible to avoid public places. Not only are we in a crowded city, but a cab ride to my English classes will cost more than I get paid for the hour and a half I'm teaching. Starting this week people started wearing masks in all public places... the street, bus, subway, even nightclubs! It turns out the masks don't prevent germs as much as people think, and they're more to eliminate the user's fear. Whether they work or not, everyone hopes the disease slows down pronto.
The swine flu is rapidly spreading in Argentina, especially in Buenos Aires. Schools are closing early for winter break, and some public offices are closing for 15 days to avoid any more spreading during what they expect to be the peak of the outbreak. Several other precautions are being taken around Buenos Aires and the rest of the country.
The health minister's press statement of "'Five percent of the swine flu cases can be serious,' and that the rest of the cases normally heal without the need to hospitalize the patient," is reassuring since it's near impossible to avoid public places. Not only are we in a crowded city, but a cab ride to my English classes will cost more than I get paid for the hour and a half I'm teaching. Starting this week people started wearing masks in all public places... the street, bus, subway, even nightclubs! It turns out the masks don't prevent germs as much as people think, and they're more to eliminate the user's fear. Whether they work or not, everyone hopes the disease slows down pronto.
July 1, 2009
oui oui? si
On a quiet street in Palermo Hollywood is a cute little cafe with some of the most delicious 
non-Argentine food here. Oui Oui is a French restaurant that is quaintly decorated with quotes on the wall and little knick knacks everywhere. The menu, which seems more American than French, is broken up in a few locations but most of it is handwritten on a large chalkboard hanging on the wall, one column for salads and one for sandwiches. To the right is a small chalkboard with a few different cheese platters listed. There are also pink slips of paper sitting on tables with the 
brunch menu and smaller dishes such as soup, hummus, and cheeses, but no prices. Look next to the door and see yet another little chalkboard with breakfast items, including full American style plates with scrambled eggs, bacon, toast, and potatoes. Another sign says "hay bagels" - there are bagels, which is hard to find in BA! On the menu, bagels come with salmon and cream cheese. I have yet to try them but I doubt they compare to bagels from NJ & NY.
Oui Oui does not take reservations and is not very big, so expect to wait outside awhile, especially on a Saturday or Sunday afternoon, even if you get there as late as 3PM. Give your name to whichever waitress is at the door. They are all wearing funky outfits under mismatched aprons. If you are waiting long enough, they may bring you a sample of their specialty drink, mint lemonade, which is as refreshing as it sounds.
Once seated, take time to look over the extensive list of options. If you're sitting outside, don't forget to peak inside at the chalkboards. Most main dishes run from AR$20-AR$30. Breakfast items include coffee, tea, mint lemonade, or wine. Salads are big, and sandwiches come with either roasted potatoes or a side salad. The waitresses are friendly and don't mind if you order your dish with changes (like removing bacon bits and adding goat cheese to my salad, which is the best goat cheese I've had in BA)
If you have room for dessert, order the Mus de Chocolate Amargo (bitter chocolate mousse). Your waiter will bring a big bowl of it to your table and scoop it onto a plate for you. It's delicious, and enough to serve a few people.
Oui Oui has another location just a few doors down (Nicaragua 6099) on the corner of Dorrego, but apparently this one doesn't have a hot kitchen.
Oui Oui is located at Nicaragua 6068 and is open Tuesday - Friday from 8AM-8PM, and Saturday and Sunday from 10AM - 8PM
non-Argentine food here. Oui Oui is a French restaurant that is quaintly decorated with quotes on the wall and little knick knacks everywhere. The menu, which seems more American than French, is broken up in a few locations but most of it is handwritten on a large chalkboard hanging on the wall, one column for salads and one for sandwiches. To the right is a small chalkboard with a few different cheese platters listed. There are also pink slips of paper sitting on tables with the brunch menu and smaller dishes such as soup, hummus, and cheeses, but no prices. Look next to the door and see yet another little chalkboard with breakfast items, including full American style plates with scrambled eggs, bacon, toast, and potatoes. Another sign says "hay bagels" - there are bagels, which is hard to find in BA! On the menu, bagels come with salmon and cream cheese. I have yet to try them but I doubt they compare to bagels from NJ & NY.Oui Oui does not take reservations and is not very big, so expect to wait outside awhile, especially on a Saturday or Sunday afternoon, even if you get there as late as 3PM. Give your name to whichever waitress is at the door. They are all wearing funky outfits under mismatched aprons. If you are waiting long enough, they may bring you a sample of their specialty drink, mint lemonade, which is as refreshing as it sounds.
Once seated, take time to look over the extensive list of options. If you're sitting outside, don't forget to peak inside at the chalkboards. Most main dishes run from AR$20-AR$30. Breakfast items include coffee, tea, mint lemonade, or wine. Salads are big, and sandwiches come with either roasted potatoes or a side salad. The waitresses are friendly and don't mind if you order your dish with changes (like removing bacon bits and adding goat cheese to my salad, which is the best goat cheese I've had in BA)
If you have room for dessert, order the Mus de Chocolate Amargo (bitter chocolate mousse). Your waiter will bring a big bowl of it to your table and scoop it onto a plate for you. It's delicious, and enough to serve a few people.Oui Oui has another location just a few doors down (Nicaragua 6099) on the corner of Dorrego, but apparently this one doesn't have a hot kitchen.
Oui Oui is located at Nicaragua 6068 and is open Tuesday - Friday from 8AM-8PM, and Saturday and Sunday from 10AM - 8PM
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