smokin' in the girls room

My first day in Spain was a long (but great) one. Most people like to get off an overnight international flight and wash off the plane smell before heading out for the day, exploring whatever foreign city they landed in. Not me. I like to drop my bags off without a shower, grab a quick cafe con leche, and go teach English. Which is exactly what I did when I landed in Madrid in December to visit Paul.

After an afternoon of speaking in slow English, stumbling over my Spanish, dancing as if there were ants in my pants or a bear on my head, coloring in and gluing Christmas ornaments to the paper tree, and meeting a ton of people (5 year olds and adults alike), I was already having a great time in Spain. After the school bell rang and we were all dismissed, the good times continued because a group of us went to happy hour and then bowling. Two of my favorite things. At this bowling alley, they even had men manually sending back the balls to you, like in Argentina. It's a dangerous job, but someone's gotta do it?

Before we knew it, it was 10pm and we were all bowled out and hungry. My body and mind were exhausted from the traveling and lack of sleep on the plane. Although I was having a great time, I couldn't wait to get some sleep. After grabbing dinner (which inspired one of these pizzas) we headed home, where I planned on passing out, as it was almost midnight, which is actually early on Madrid's watch. As I was organizing my things and pulling out my pajamas, Paul pointed out that it was my only Friday night in Spain, and maybe we should take advantage of it by going back out for a walk and seeing what was going on in the city? He was absolutely right, and I immediately agreed, putting my pajamas back down. Suddenly we both seemed to have a second wind as we walked out into the cold night air to see what was waiting in Madrid.

We walked and chatted for a long time, giving me a great opportunity to take in the city all lit up. I just followed Paul, as I clearly had no idea where I was going, and wouldn't have even known if he was lost and hiding it. After walking for at least 45 minutes we stopped into this super cute and cozy bar. Paul had been to the bar next door before and this one had caught his eye. We sat at a table in the window and ordered our drinks, but of course I had to go to the bathroom before I could get settled (me and my small bladder). I got up and asked one of the servers where the restrooms were, and he pointed to the door and explained to me that they were outside, to the right, and in the bar next door. Now, those who know me know how gullible I am, so although I was a bit skeptical, I thought it made a bit of sense because maybe the 2 bars were connected or owned by the same people or something along those lines.. plus, this kind of oddity would somehow be completely normal in Argentina. So I kindly thanked him and turned back to our table to tell Paul that the reason I'm walking back outside into the cold night is to use the bathroom at the bar next door, not because I was ditching him. And I would probably want to grab my jacket while I was at it.

"No no no!" the server laughed, before I had a chance to get back to the table. This bar actually had their own restrooms and they were right downstairs! Imagine that. Lesson learned: Spaniards have a sense of humor.

So I head downstairs to the women's restroom, without having to go outside first, and find one stall that is already occupied, so I wait. A couple minutes later, the woman emerges from the stall... with a lit cigarette in hand! My goodness, all I can think about is how did she possibly do all she had to do in there while smoking a cigarette. Plus the fact that it just seems extremely unhealthy.. even more so than smoking a cigarette in a "normal" setting.

I go back upstairs and obviously tell Paul both of these stories, who replies, "That's really funny. you should write a blog post about that."

cuba

For all us Americans who have been wanting to go to Cuba and haven't found the loophole yet, although some of you have, Cuba is coming to us this Spring. A taste of this Caribbean island will visit New York through a Cuban Arts Festival called ¡Si Cuba! Dancing, music, paintings, photography, film, and more, will give New Yorkers a taste of the lively culture of Cuba, while taking a step in the right direction of forming a positive relationship between the states and the island.

argentina in spain

A little Argentine ♥ in Madrid...



mate



cooking Argentine meat with love

   

alfajores



map, futbol, obelisk

Feliz Navidad

Decorating a paper Christmas tree with ornaments
created by the kindergarten class of an elementary school in Madrid...
not something I thought I'd be doing this holiday season, but happy I got to :)

catching up

Enjoying my last few months in Argentina, and readjusting and taking in everything I missed while away from the states, I have obviously slacked on One Way to BA.

Since my last post I spent about 3 more amazing months in Buenos Aires, complete with more steak, Malbec, cafes, asados, San Telmo market, teaching ESL, alfajores, helado, dudo, and trips to Brazil and Bariloche. Clearly I was too busy to write :)

Since I returned to the states in June, I have been based in New Jersey, reconnecting with friends and family, job searching, volunteering, enjoying American culture while at the same time missing Argentina, and traveling up and down the East Coast as well as to Bermuda, California, and Spain.

Falling back into the routines of home has been very easy and comforting, and I love living close to family and old friends again. However, even 6 months after leaving, I still find myself thinking about life and culture in Argentina, missing the feel of it all. When you have been fortunate enough to live in such an amazing place, creating unique memories that will last a lifetime, it is hard not to think about that time. Argentina will always hold a special place in my heart :)

tigre

A quick and cheap train ride away lies Tigre, a small town on the delta and an easy escape from the hustle and bustle of the city. Opt for the Tren de La Costa on the way there for a more scenic route, at AR$12 one way. On the way back take the Mitre Line, which ends in Retiro, for AR$0.80 one way.

Once in Tigre enjoy a walk along the river, browse the market, and stop for lunch. Definitely take a tour of the Delta (one of the little stands along the river offering tours for about AR$22 per person is perfectly safe, and a better deal than the tourist agencies which charge almost double that) where in a 1hr boat ride you will learn about the history of the town and see how people live on the water, with boats being used for supermarkets and school buses.

If there's time, spend a few hours in Parque de la Costa, the amusement park of Buenos Aires. South America doesn't really "do" amusement parks, so don't expect 6 Flags, Busch Gardens, or any of the other usual suspects we have in the states. Ticket prices vary depending on the day and what is included, but range from AR$25 - AR$80 per person. Once inside everything is fairly close together, despite the deceiving map, making the park look much bigger than it is. For such a small park, there are some good rides, including 2 upside down rollercoasters, a log flume, a wooden rollercoaster, swings, and some extreme sports you pay extra for. Food options don't go much further than burgers, hot dogs, fries, and ice cream. Overall it's clean, fun, and a good value.

Parque de la Costa is open Tuesday - Sunday from 11am - 9pm. Tren de La Costa station is located on Av. Maipu 2300, in Olivos.

back in the usa

First stop in the States after 7.5 months away: Miami International Airport.

And so far… not much of a difference.

Everyone speaks Spanish and English, all the signs are in Spanish and English, it’s warm outside, it’s an airport…

BUT – I see English magazines (Time, Newsweek, Cosmo, People, Us!), American candy (Reese’s Peanut Butter Cups, Butterfingers!), Dunkin’ Donuts, and most importantly – bagels!

Although, I’m waiting until New Jersey for the real thing. I've waited this long, I can wait a few more hours...

guest blogger: Stuck in the 50s ... Malbec style

GatoNegro. A balcony. Buenos Aires. Savoring good friends from abroad. This is DEFINITELY the life. Yes, it has been a while since an update has been made to this particular perspective of residence in the Argentina capital. (notice the alliteration - I paid attention in 8th grade). Until just recently, nothing earth-shattering has occurred in my otherwise monotonous porteña existence. A week ago a relatively unknown decided to stop in. His name: Paul. Enough said. One of the most amazing, influential people in my life. He convinces me to leave DC - at least, that it was a good idea, for me. And, in return, I was able to offer the same to him. He to Barcelona, albeit a bit later. So we have this connection. And I get to play host and tour guide for a while, which has been ... entertaining, to say the least. Wings on a wall, amazing Argentine steak, prevoleta like none other, super unhealthy yet tantalizingly delicious choripan, walks through Palermo and San Telmo and Congreso and parks and cafes and book stores, text messaging like you would not believe. A smile never escapes my face. It's been great to welcome a now good friend to a city I have come to accept as "home". He constantly comments on how well I know my surroundings and how comfortable I am here. And, it's true, when I think about it, I am comfortable here. I know my way around. Anything he has asked me, I've been able to come up with a relatively reasonable response. I am proud of myself, as I should be, he tells me. As a favor in return he puts up with my constant "so, in Barcelona, what is ...blah blah blah... like" compared to life here. Many differences, he has to say. But I like where I am. The food, the people, the wine, the vibrance. He makes me realize how much I have really gotten to know my new surroundings, how well I have managed on my own, meeting new people, living independently, tolerating Argentine casanovas, tackling check-out counters, confidently navigating bus routes. It's impressive, he says, of where I am here in Buenos Aires. And, you know, I agree.

It has been really nice having a friend from DC come to visit. To show around. To be "normal" around. To have mutual experiences and connections to reflect upon, and at the same time, understand what it is like to leave everything that you perceive as normal American living for a new, well, American life. And I am doing very well. I may not have all the answers. I may be enjoying my youth. But it's where I should be - eating too much ice cream, enjoying my oh-too-many-hours of leisure time, figuring out what is best for me, outside my comfort zone. In a new comfort zone.

Cats and walruses. Yeeeeessssss. Balloon hearts. Mate microphones. Wine on a balcony in a perfect, cloudless, sunny porteño evening. It's my life, and I love it.

Hasta pronto, familia y amigos. Todo bien. No se preocupen. Estoy en buenas manos.

Meghan

(About the author: Paul Contino is a respected and worldy traveler, making his way, one country at a time, through South America. You can find his perception of latin life in this particular article, as well as at http://paulcontino.wordpress.com. Kudos to his entertaining personality and unique and somewhat odd aproach to life!)

choripan (bondiola not pictured)

posing with the author

colonia, uruguay

As all non-portenos living in Argentina know, we are granted an automatic 90 day tourist visa upon our arrival. This means that 90 days after our arrival we have to leave the country (whether it has to be for a day, night, or just enough time to get your passport stamped is up in the air) to renew it, or else pay a fine. The fine used to be only AR$50, which didn't exactly make us expats run to the border after 3 months, but now that it's jumped to AR$300 it's worth it to spend less on a boat ticket and make a day trip to Uruguay.

Just a quick boat ride away, the closest Uruguayan city to Buenos Aires is Colonia. Buquebus, the boat company, located in Puerto Madero at Av. Cordoba, gives you the option of the fast boat (1 hour) or the "slow" boat (3 hours), which is a little less expensive. A quiet town on the water with cobblestone streets, a lighthouse, and outdated cars, Colonia feels years away from the big city of Buenos Aires. The short travel time, plus the small size of Colonia, allows for an easy day trip.



Some of the main highlights include enjoying time on the water, walking (or riding around on a rented moto or go kart) the quaint cobblestone streets with their colonial houses, enjoying coffee in the main plaza, visiting the museums, the lighthouse, the historical city gate and wall with its cannons, and Iglesia Matriz (the oldest church in Uruguay). Even all of this will take no more than a few hours, since everything is small and centrally located, so taking your time and relaxing is key, and easy to do.

A beautiful city, and so easily accessible from Buenos Aires, a daytrip is definitely worth it.

salta road trip

Last week, at the last minute, I was fortunate enough to join my friends on trip to Salta, in northern Argentina. I knew little about the area besides everyone telling me it was "¡muy linda!" which it turns out, is true. Although my friends had done more research, they too didn't really know what to expect, so we were in for an adventure.

We started out on the luxurious 20 hour overnight bus ride which included a full reclining seat with a pillow and blanket, dinner, breakfast, both alcoholic and non alcoholic drinks, 3 movies, and a stewardess. Unlike any bus ride I've ever experienced! We arrived in Salta, the capital of the Salta region, refreshed and ready to sightsee. After checking into our hostel, we explored the small city, including the stunning San Francisco Church, the Salta Tram, and the beautiful main plaza with orange trees.

The next day we rented a car and set off to explore the rest of the region for week, staying in a different little town each night. Mainly following suggestions from guide books and tourist offices, we had no idea what to really expect.

We drove on climbing narrow, rocky, twisty roads through mountains with no barriers separating us from the cliffs below, saw breathtaking scenery, stepped out of the car into complete silence and miles of mountains, stood in a natural amphitheater, hiked La Garganta del Diablo (the devil's throat), and tasted the natural salt of the salt flats...

We stayed in small dusty, outdated towns where we were the only tourists, bought (not so) fresh produce from local grocers and cooked dinners in our homestays, ate lots of empanadas, shopped artisenaries, toured vineyards, met locals, and experienced local holiday festivals, and of course, took a lot of pictures...





Overall, an amazing experience. Read about the trip in more detail here.