back in the usa

First stop in the States after 7.5 months away: Miami International Airport.

And so far… not much of a difference.

Everyone speaks Spanish and English, all the signs are in Spanish and English, it’s warm outside, it’s an airport…

BUT – I see English magazines (Time, Newsweek, Cosmo, People, Us!), American candy (Reese’s Peanut Butter Cups, Butterfingers!), Dunkin’ Donuts, and most importantly – bagels!

Although, I’m waiting until New Jersey for the real thing. I've waited this long, I can wait a few more hours...

caballeros live on

Chivalry is not dead in Argentina.

As a woman it's a given that if there's a man waiting for the bus or elevator with me, he will let me on first, no matter what. Most men here have even been raised to walk next to you on the street side of the sidewalk, which is something I've only seen my dad do up until now. Sure, men also never forget to stare you down, whistle, or catcall as you pass them, but as long as they hold the door for me, I have no problem with it.

Sometimes it's nice to be a little pampered ;)

restaurant service. or lack of.

If restaurant service in the states was like the service given here in Argentina, waiters would never make any propinas (tips). As it is, they only receive 8-10% here. But the difference is, they don't live off their tips; they make a higher hourly wage so the tips aren't as important. Which may be why the service isn't very... attentive.

There's no "How is everything," "Can I get you something else," etc. Don't expect the waiter to automatically refill your drink, and don't expect them to clear your plate as soon as you're done.

On the other hand, when you do need something, simply ask and you will receive it quickly. Take your time with your meal, and don't feel bad sitting back and continuing your conversation even when you're done eating. You won't feel rushed by having the check dropped off on your table before you've even decided whether you want dessert or not. In fact, you won't receive the check until you ask for it.

The Argentines may be on to something here. Like life, going out to eat should be relaxing and leisurely, an experience to enjoy, not something to be rushed through.

guest blogger: Stuck in the 50s ... Malbec style

GatoNegro. A balcony. Buenos Aires. Savoring good friends from abroad. This is DEFINITELY the life. Yes, it has been a while since an update has been made to this particular perspective of residence in the Argentina capital. (notice the alliteration - I paid attention in 8th grade). Until just recently, nothing earth-shattering has occurred in my otherwise monotonous porteña existence. A week ago a relatively unknown decided to stop in. His name: Paul. Enough said. One of the most amazing, influential people in my life. He convinces me to leave DC - at least, that it was a good idea, for me. And, in return, I was able to offer the same to him. He to Barcelona, albeit a bit later. So we have this connection. And I get to play host and tour guide for a while, which has been ... entertaining, to say the least. Wings on a wall, amazing Argentine steak, prevoleta like none other, super unhealthy yet tantalizingly delicious choripan, walks through Palermo and San Telmo and Congreso and parks and cafes and book stores, text messaging like you would not believe. A smile never escapes my face. It's been great to welcome a now good friend to a city I have come to accept as "home". He constantly comments on how well I know my surroundings and how comfortable I am here. And, it's true, when I think about it, I am comfortable here. I know my way around. Anything he has asked me, I've been able to come up with a relatively reasonable response. I am proud of myself, as I should be, he tells me. As a favor in return he puts up with my constant "so, in Barcelona, what is ...blah blah blah... like" compared to life here. Many differences, he has to say. But I like where I am. The food, the people, the wine, the vibrance. He makes me realize how much I have really gotten to know my new surroundings, how well I have managed on my own, meeting new people, living independently, tolerating Argentine casanovas, tackling check-out counters, confidently navigating bus routes. It's impressive, he says, of where I am here in Buenos Aires. And, you know, I agree.

It has been really nice having a friend from DC come to visit. To show around. To be "normal" around. To have mutual experiences and connections to reflect upon, and at the same time, understand what it is like to leave everything that you perceive as normal American living for a new, well, American life. And I am doing very well. I may not have all the answers. I may be enjoying my youth. But it's where I should be - eating too much ice cream, enjoying my oh-too-many-hours of leisure time, figuring out what is best for me, outside my comfort zone. In a new comfort zone.

Cats and walruses. Yeeeeessssss. Balloon hearts. Mate microphones. Wine on a balcony in a perfect, cloudless, sunny porteño evening. It's my life, and I love it.

Hasta pronto, familia y amigos. Todo bien. No se preocupen. Estoy en buenas manos.

Meghan

(About the author: Paul Contino is a respected and worldy traveler, making his way, one country at a time, through South America. You can find his perception of latin life in this particular article, as well as at http://paulcontino.wordpress.com. Kudos to his entertaining personality and unique and somewhat odd aproach to life!)

choripan (bondiola not pictured)

posing with the author

celebrate good times

Every time I turn around we're celebrating another holiday here in Argentina.

They start out similar to national holidays in the states, with Independence day (2 of them), flag day, Mother's Day (although it's in October), Father's Day, and Columbus Day (which I selfishly thought only the states celebrated. duh).

Then we get into the holidays that you might find on a random USA calendar, but no one really celebrates, like Secretary's Day and Teacher's Day. Then there are the holidays we just don't have in the states, like Friend's Day, Children's Day, Student's Day, Spring Day, and Animal's Day. Not only will you find these on the calendar, but you will find people fully celebrating them, and I love it.

On Friend's Day (Dia del Amigo) old friends get together for dinner, drinks, or mate. It's a nice reminder to thank your friends for being them, and an excuse to get together during busy schedules. It started in Argentina the day man walked the moon. Enrique Febbraro, an Argentine teacher, dentist, and musician, had a peaceful thought that on this day the entire world was united and were friends, and that the anniversary should be celebrated every year as Dia del Amigo. Unfortunately, Uruguay was the only other country to follow suit. I think I should bring it to the states.

Children's Day is celebrated much like Mother's & Father's Day; the family gets together on a Sunday and children receive gifts.

Student's Day and Spring Day always fall on the same date, September 21, the first day of Spring (Primavera). High school students have the day off and flock to the parks with their friends for mate, games, and food. The parks are more packed than usual, and picnics are going on everywhere. Individual flowers are sold in the streets because traditionally males are supposed to buy flowers for their female friends. Right around Dia de la Primavera, "Feliz Primavera" and flower decorations start showing up in every store front. They really take this beautiful season seriously here!


Although there are so many holidays I can barely keep track, I really admire the way Argentines celebrate the non-patriotic and -religious ones. Although we should celebrate our students, teachers, mothers, fathers, children, friends, secretaries, animals, and even seasons regularly, it's easy to forget. The more holidays the merrier - a little extra celebrating never hurt anyone!

tango

Tango is THE dance of Buenos Aires. An intimate dance which uses a lot of improvisation, it originated here in BA and the tradition still carries on. Going a day without seeing at least one tango image, store, or performance is almost impossible!

One of the few things open on Sundays is the San Telmo Market. Since almost everything else is closed, it seems most of the city flocks here to pass Sunday afternoon. We stroll, shop, eat, and what else, watch tango.

easy like sunday morning

A Sunday in Buenos Aires, where almost everything is shut down..

feliz

According to a recent Forbes article, Buenos Aires is (perceived to be) the 10th happiest city in the world. Rio de Janeiro topped off the list at number 1, and all those in between are in Australia, Europe, Brazil again, and only one in the US (take a wild guess which one).

The reason given for BA making the list is rather disappointing:

"Argentina's largest city makes the cut in part for its relative proximity to the first city on this list. "It's a slightly diluted version of Rio," says Anholt. "I suspect people know far less about Buenos Aires than Rio. They may not know it's in Argentina, but they know it's in Latin America.""

I don't doubt that most people don't know too much about Buenos Aires, but I'd like to think it's perceived to be one of the happiest cities for reasons other than just its proximity to Rio! My friends and I can certainly list quite a few :)
Either way, I'm proud that my current home made the list.

9/11 abroad

This is my first time being out of the country on the anniversary of 9/11.

8 years later, my mind is no less further from the stressful memory of that tragic day, when I was a senior in high school watching the smoke rise up from the city while standing next to my classmates in New Jersey.. But this day also usually brings positive thoughts of a nation united, a country who grew closer to each other and became prouder to be Americans. This is proven each year as the anniversary falls upon us, when American flags are waved, when those we lost are honored, when we come together to reflect, when we're maybe a little nicer to strangers because we know their thoughts are also wandering back to that fateful day we can never forget...

The past 7 anniversaries I have been in Washington, DC on the anniversary and have usually made my way to the National Mall for a ceremony. Argentina happens to be a little further removed from the situation so this year it's safe to say I am having a different experience... basically the complete opposite than I would be having in the states, since this day doesn't have as much significance here.

Although there are no American flags waving and I am on a different continent, my thoughts, and the rest of the expats' I'm sure, are with the states, and my mind can't help but drift back to the day that is still so clear in our memories.

nightlife

BA is home to a very relaxed lifestyle, which has its pros (obvious) and cons (people are late, everything is a process, etc). One result of the relaxed attitude is the late nightlife. We drink coffee when people in the states are preparing dinner. We eat dinner when American families are going to bed. And we get to the bar or club when bartenders in the states are calling last call.

By now I am used to taking my time. Why do I need to rush home from work to eat dinner at 6? I can get more done, relax, take my time, and ease into everything. It just makes more sense. I still can't handle the late club nights every time, but since I love dancing the night away, I make it through more often than not.

Here's a better idea of the comparison between a typical Friday night in DC and one in BA:

DC: Finish work at 5 or 6 PM. Have already been planning the night with my friends so I know exactly what I'm wearing and where I have to be at what time.

BA: Finish teaching my last class in the afternoon, have coffee around 5 or 6 PM,
and have probably finished lunch with friends not long before that.

DC: Rush home from work, jump in the shower, make a very quick dinner to eat while getting ready. Must be at X's house at 8:30PM and still have to pick up drinks along the way

BA: Discuss the night's plans with friends. It's decided we'll have the "pre"
(read: pre-game) at X's apartment around 11PM, and we have a club in mind.
In the meantime, I go home and relax.

DC: Make it to X's house late - quarter of 9 - because the metro had delays. We want to make it to the bar around 11PM, so enjoy drinks and company until then, possibly some beer pong.

BA: Cook dinner around 10PM and then get in the shower.
Make my way out of the apartment to catch the bus around 11:30PM.
Get to X's place and I'm the first one.

DC: Get on the metro around 10:30PM and arrive at the bars around 11.
They're starting to fill up and some people are lingering from happy hour.

BA: The rest of my friends start showing up to the apartment shortly after me.
Since we didn't pick up beer along the way, we just have it delivered.
A few rounds of dudo are necessary.

DC: We dance, drink, dance some more, and get kicked out of the bar after last call, around 2 or 2:30AM. Jumbo slice is calling our name, so we get pizza and eat it in the cab on the way home. Asleep by 3:30AM.

BA: At 2AM we leave the apartment to get to the club.
We need to be in by 2:30 to avoid the entrada (cover charge).
On the way we pick up empanadas porque tenemos hambre.

BA: We get to the club at 2:30AM and it's virtually empty. It starts to fill up around 3 or so. We dance, drink, dance some more.
"Que hora es?" someone asks. 4AM, it's early still.

BA: Finally, at 6AM, after our fill of nonstop dancing, we willingly leave the club. It's still packed and will be for awhile longer, but we're tired. We get in cabs and head home, maybe catching the sunrise along the way. Asleep by 7AM.

Some nights I would prefer the night out in DC, but for now... when in Rome!

spanish in argentina

Argentine Spanish is not easy. Even native Spanish speakers from other countries sometimes have trouble understanding the Argentines. Coming here I had to throw out some of what I learned in high school Spanish, such as:

• "You'll never need to use vos, don't even study it." You'll never need to use vos... except in Argentina.
  

• Pollo, me llamo, tortilla... all pronounced with the ll as y, right? wrong. ll = sh.

Add to that some unfamiliar vocabulary (ex: strawberry = frutilla, not fresa), it's no surprise that after 4 months of living here I find it easier to speak with my Colombian roommate of 1 month than anyone on the streets of BA. I have fully adjusted to pronouncing the ll the Argentine way, but understanding it is not always easy, and I'm still using tu instead of vos. Of course, I do learn more and more everyday, and am thankful that I am (almost) fully immersed in the language.

Like a lot of other cities, BA has its own dictionary of slang, but unlike a lot of cities, I think it's thicker than normal. Courtesy of my fellow-DC-friend-who-also-quit-his-job-to-move-abroad, here is a guide to some BA slang.

salida del sol, puesta del sol

The sunrise and sunset are two things I believe a lot of people take for granted. They both happen everyday, are always beautiful (minus a rainy day), and take little time to watch, yet they come and go without people even realizing it. For most, the transition from light to dark (and vice versa) is just that. Light to dark, with no pink/orange/red/purple sky in between. I have to admit, I have often taken these two things for granted, but for some reason, being here makes me appreciate them more.


For a lot of people in BA, it's quite easy to catch the sunrise. No, not because they're waking up early to study or work out, but because they're still up from the night before. With a nightlife that gets started around 3AM, the odds of catching the sun waking up are high. I've certainly seen the sunrise this way once or twice ;)

Unfortunately, during sunset, most people are at work. But if you can make it to your balcony, or a place that isn't blocked by tall buildings, it's a sight to see. One friend here used to have "sunset parties" - mate, friends, and an awesome view of the sunset. There's nothing better than sitting on your balcony in warm weather, drinking a coffee/cerveza/mate, chatting with friends or listening to music, and catching the sun paint the sky as it goes down for the night.

With spring finally upon us, I hope to catch as many sunsets as I can. And by chance I'll probably catch a few more sunrises...

porro?

Last week the Argentina supreme court decriminalized marijuana use, saying that adults can make their own decisions, as long as they smoke privately and don't harm anyone. Not that any law (like most laws in this country) was enforced before, since you can smell weed in the streets on any given day, but now people will certainly be a little more adventurous. This change in law follows other Latin American countries such as Venezuela, Ecuador, and Colombia.

It's not legal.. yet.. but we shall see how this step impacts la vida loca en Buenos Aires.

If you'd like to brush up on your related Spanish vocabulary, click here.

a little saigon

With the number of eating options in this city it's a wonder they all stay in business with so much competition. Add to that at least 20 puertas cerradas (closed door restaurants) and I guess we can conclude that porteños really like to eat, and they like to do it in style.

A puerta cerrada is essentially an intimate dinner at the chef's house. The restaurants are usually only open on specific days of the week or month and offer a pre-fixed menu to a limited number of reservations. Prices tend to be higher than a "regular" restaurant but at a puerta cerrada you're also paying for more attentive service and a deliciously unique experience.

I recently had the opportunity to dine at A Little Saigon, a closed door Vietnamese restaurant in Buenos Aires. Having learned about both this restaurant and the concept of a puerta cerrada at the same time when I first arrived in BA, I had been eager to try it. My mom's visit mid-August was the perfect opportunity. A Little Saigon is open every Friday, Saturday, and Sunday for AR$100 per person, with a different theme each weekend. With only 12 seats available each night I made sure to make my reservation for the August 15th "Meat Lovers" dinner ahead of time. Thuy, the chef, immediately responded with a confirmation. We were good to go!

Saturday evening arrived and although my mom and I didn't know exactly what to expect, we were both very excited to visit A Little Saigon. We both love to cook, eat, drink, and socialize so were interested in this uncommon dining situation that neither of us had experienced before. We arrived at 9PM and Thuy's fiance, Ben, greeted us at the door and after we took our shoes off (a Vietnamese tradition and show of respect) he poured us each a glass of wine while Thuy cooked in the kitchen. The dinner table was set up in their living room, right when you walk in the door. Lighting was low, candles were lit, the table was set already, and flowers floated in water filled vases. Only 2 other reservations had been made for this evening, so we waited for them while we chatted with Ben. The first starter was brought out, flavorful pork dumplings with soy sauce. It was time for the next course, but the other reservations had not shown up yet. Once it became clear that they were probably not coming, it was decided that Thuy and Ben would join us in eating dinner, and they began to bring out the rest of the meal.

We sat down and enjoyed the scrumptious appetizer of chicken rice chowder, probably my favorite dish of the evening. The main course was then served family style and included jasmine rice, caramelized pork ribs, sweet and sour shrimp (which I was especially excited for considering seafood is majorly lacking in my diet here in Argentina!), and spicy beef (which was actually spicy, not Argentine spicy). It was all incredibly delicious; Thuy is a great chef.

After the main course, dessert was served in the form of jasmine tea and cassava cake, a flourless cake made with cassava root. Neither my mom or I had ever tried it before but it was very tasty.

With all the beef, empenadas, and pizza we eat in BA, the Vietnamese food was a great break. The food was amazing, but the company was also fantastic. Thuy and Ben were so nice to welcome us into their home, and my mom and I were so happy that they ended up eating dinner with us. The 4 of us chatted like old friends all through dinner. They made us feel so welcome; we felt like we were just at our friend's apartment for dinner, minus paying! I look forward to trying other puertas cerradas in BA, and hopefully revisiting A Little Saigon.

For those of you who aren't in BA and don't have the privelage of visiting A Little Saigon, here is the recipe for Thuy's delicious Cassava Cake:

INGREDIENTS
1 lb cassava root
400 ml (1 can) coconut milk
100 ml water
2 tablespoons butter
3 eggs
2/3 cup sugar
1 teaspoon talk

METHOD
- preheat oven 345
- grate cassava root to acquire 4 cups
- combine eggs, butter, sugar, and salt. beat until frothy
- add coconut milk, water and cassava. mix well.
- pour mix into buttered 8X8 baking dish.
- bake 30 minutes, let cool before serving.


Visit A Little Saigon's website or e-mail Thuy for more information or to make a reservation

colonia, uruguay

As all non-portenos living in Argentina know, we are granted an automatic 90 day tourist visa upon our arrival. This means that 90 days after our arrival we have to leave the country (whether it has to be for a day, night, or just enough time to get your passport stamped is up in the air) to renew it, or else pay a fine. The fine used to be only AR$50, which didn't exactly make us expats run to the border after 3 months, but now that it's jumped to AR$300 it's worth it to spend less on a boat ticket and make a day trip to Uruguay.

Just a quick boat ride away, the closest Uruguayan city to Buenos Aires is Colonia. Buquebus, the boat company, located in Puerto Madero at Av. Cordoba, gives you the option of the fast boat (1 hour) or the "slow" boat (3 hours), which is a little less expensive. A quiet town on the water with cobblestone streets, a lighthouse, and outdated cars, Colonia feels years away from the big city of Buenos Aires. The short travel time, plus the small size of Colonia, allows for an easy day trip.



Some of the main highlights include enjoying time on the water, walking (or riding around on a rented moto or go kart) the quaint cobblestone streets with their colonial houses, enjoying coffee in the main plaza, visiting the museums, the lighthouse, the historical city gate and wall with its cannons, and Iglesia Matriz (the oldest church in Uruguay). Even all of this will take no more than a few hours, since everything is small and centrally located, so taking your time and relaxing is key, and easy to do.

A beautiful city, and so easily accessible from Buenos Aires, a daytrip is definitely worth it.

the apartment dance

As I mentioned here, it's very easy for a foreigner to find and move into an apartment in BA. With just your suitcases, a few extra belongings you may have picked up along the way, and no leases or contracts, a move can take less than an hour, as opposed to the day long process it becomes in the states.

Recently I moved out of the apartment I had been in for my first 2 months in BA, and into a new one not far away. I had what I came to BA with - 2 suitcases and a backpack, all very full - plus a few shopping bags of groceries and extra belongings that wouldn't fit into my luggage, and a mirror and a fan I had picked up from friends moving back to the states. My landlady let me out of the building and said bye as I moved everything to the sidewalk where I was planning on hailing a cab. For about 5 minutes I was standing on the curb alone, attempting to hail a cab, homeless, no keys to any apartment, with all my belongings at my feet. It turned out to be the easiest move I've made (no furniture, minimal unpacking time, no leases to sign) but that 5 minutes definitely also made it one of the most comical moves I've ever made. All part of the experience!

HOW TO not get hit by a bus in ba

...and other transportation lessons learned.

Pedestrians: As noted here, stop signs are rare in the capital city of Argentina. In place of one there may be a speed bump to prevent full speed crashes, but more often than not avoiding accidents takes luck and courage. With several cars coming from both (as opposed to 4, since most streets are one way) directions, who has the right of way? The speeding cab, the speeding bus, or you, the pedestrian on foot? In the states this answer is easy: the pedestrian. Here in Buenos Aires, not so much. Try expecting traffic to stop for you (or at least slow down) when you cross the street and instead be faced with a blaring horn and a heavy foot on the gas pedal. I hope you have your running shoes on. And health insurance. Your best bet when crossing the street is to wait until one way is clear, and cars coming from the other way are slowing down for the speed bump. Another option is to run across in the same direction of whichever cars have decided to go. And I say "decided" because there doesn't seem to be any method of taking turns.

Cabs: Available cabs will have their red "Libre" light on in the front windshield. Cabs are fairly easy to flag down, especially on main streets. There will always be a line of them slowly driving past bus stops in hopes that people will get impatient waiting for the bus or realize they don't have enough monedas (coins). Pay attention to where you're going so you don't get taken for a ride, especially if you're obviously a foreigner, which is almost always obvious even if you speak the language. As far as tipping, just round up to the next peso. Take the above no-stop-sign-lesson into account and wear your seatbelt!

Subte: With all the lines starting downtown and branching out into the city, the subway layout is not the most practical, but luckily there will be a bus to take you anywhere the subte doesn't (see below). One-way on the subte is AR$1.10, no matter where you're going. There are no machines to buy your ticket from, but instead you go up to the ticket window, and bills are accepted as well as coins (but save your monedas if you can). Specify how many viajes (trips) you want and usually receive one ticket for each. Once you enter the platform you don't need your ticket anymore. Trains usually arrive within a few minutes of each other. Especially during rush hour expect to be packed like sardines in the hot cars. Make sure to watch your bag, as this can be a prime spot for pickpocketers.

Bus: The bus is tricky and takes some time to master. First things first: buy a Guia T, which is the bus guide and also a map of the city, at any newsstand. Extremely intimidating at first with all the maps, lines, and hundreds of routes, it actually makes perfect sense once you understand it. There are bus routes down almost every street and luckily they run all night, since the subte closes at 10PM. There's no schedule since you never have to wait more than a few minutes for one. Buses only take coins and there's currently a coin shortage in the city, hence all the talk of saving monedas above. Get on and either specify your direction to the driver, or say "uno, viente" or AR$1.20, which is the standard fair. If you're going less than 10 blocks it's AR$1.10.. but I'd save your coins and walk. Put your coins in the machine and retrieve your ticket. If you're the last one on and there's a line for the machine, step in as far as you can because the driver will continue on even with the door open, as long as no one is still waiting on the curb. When your stop is coming up hit the button that says "timbre" and wait near the exit because the bus will only stop for a couple seconds, if that. While on the bus, hold on tight. Like the rest of transportation in BA, it's a bumpy ride.

4th of july in buenos aires

2009's 4th of July was unlike any other I've experienced. For starters, it's winter. When has America ever celebrated it's independence in 50 degree weather? Second, no BBQs. Third, no fireworks. Fourth, no parades. And last, minimal red, white, and blue. If there was any, it was probably worn by accident. The US Embassy in BA did reach out and make an attempt to remind us of the meaning behind the 4th of July while expressing their understanding that it may be difficult to celebrate without the traditions we're used to. There may have been some celebratory events geared towards Americans wanting to celebrate their country's independence, but most were canceled because of the swine flu.

With none of our normal customs available, what better alternative way to celebrate than eat dinner at TGIFridays? Can't get much more American than that in BA...

apparently i write a lot about food...

Here's something different...

The swine flu is rapidly spreading in Argentina, especially in Buenos Aires. Schools are closing early for winter break, and some public offices are closing for 15 days to avoid any more spreading during what they expect to be the peak of the outbreak. Several other precautions are being taken around Buenos Aires and the rest of the country.

The health minister's press statement of "'Five percent of the swine flu cases can be serious,' and that the rest of the cases normally heal without the need to hospitalize the patient," is reassuring since it's near impossible to avoid public places. Not only are we in a crowded city, but a cab ride to my English classes will cost more than I get paid for the hour and a half I'm teaching. Starting this week people started wearing masks in all public places... the street, bus, subway, even nightclubs! It turns out the masks don't prevent germs as much as people think, and they're more to eliminate the user's fear. Whether they work or not, everyone hopes the disease slows down pronto.

oui oui? si

On a quiet street in Palermo Hollywood is a cute little cafe with some of the most delicious non-Argentine food here. Oui Oui is a French restaurant that is quaintly decorated with quotes on the wall and little knick knacks everywhere. The menu, which seems more American than French, is broken up in a few locations but most of it is handwritten on a large chalkboard hanging on the wall, one column for salads and one for sandwiches. To the right is a small chalkboard with a few different cheese platters listed. There are also pink slips of paper sitting on tables with the brunch menu and smaller dishes such as soup, hummus, and cheeses, but no prices. Look next to the door and see yet another little chalkboard with breakfast items, including full American style plates with scrambled eggs, bacon, toast, and potatoes. Another sign says "hay bagels" - there are bagels, which is hard to find in BA! On the menu, bagels come with salmon and cream cheese. I have yet to try them but I doubt they compare to bagels from NJ & NY.

Oui Oui does not take reservations and is not very big, so expect to wait outside awhile, especially on a Saturday or Sunday afternoon, even if you get there as late as 3PM. Give your name to whichever waitress is at the door. They are all wearing funky outfits under mismatched aprons. If you are waiting long enough, they may bring you a sample of their specialty drink, mint lemonade, which is as refreshing as it sounds.

Once seated, take time to look over the extensive list of options. If you're sitting outside, don't forget to peak inside at the chalkboards. Most main dishes run from AR$20-AR$30. Breakfast items include coffee, tea, mint lemonade, or wine. Salads are big, and sandwiches come with either roasted potatoes or a side salad. The waitresses are friendly and don't mind if you order your dish with changes (like removing bacon bits and adding goat cheese to my salad, which is the best goat cheese I've had in BA)


If you have room for dessert, order the Mus de Chocolate Amargo (bitter chocolate mousse). Your waiter will bring a big bowl of it to your table and scoop it onto a plate for you. It's delicious, and enough to serve a few people.

Oui Oui has another location just a few doors down (Nicaragua 6099) on the corner of Dorrego, but apparently this one doesn't have a hot kitchen.

Oui Oui is located at Nicaragua 6068 and is open Tuesday - Friday from 8AM-8PM, and Saturday and Sunday from 10AM - 8PM

salta road trip

Last week, at the last minute, I was fortunate enough to join my friends on trip to Salta, in northern Argentina. I knew little about the area besides everyone telling me it was "¡muy linda!" which it turns out, is true. Although my friends had done more research, they too didn't really know what to expect, so we were in for an adventure.

We started out on the luxurious 20 hour overnight bus ride which included a full reclining seat with a pillow and blanket, dinner, breakfast, both alcoholic and non alcoholic drinks, 3 movies, and a stewardess. Unlike any bus ride I've ever experienced! We arrived in Salta, the capital of the Salta region, refreshed and ready to sightsee. After checking into our hostel, we explored the small city, including the stunning San Francisco Church, the Salta Tram, and the beautiful main plaza with orange trees.

The next day we rented a car and set off to explore the rest of the region for week, staying in a different little town each night. Mainly following suggestions from guide books and tourist offices, we had no idea what to really expect.

We drove on climbing narrow, rocky, twisty roads through mountains with no barriers separating us from the cliffs below, saw breathtaking scenery, stepped out of the car into complete silence and miles of mountains, stood in a natural amphitheater, hiked La Garganta del Diablo (the devil's throat), and tasted the natural salt of the salt flats...

We stayed in small dusty, outdated towns where we were the only tourists, bought (not so) fresh produce from local grocers and cooked dinners in our homestays, ate lots of empanadas, shopped artisenaries, toured vineyards, met locals, and experienced local holiday festivals, and of course, took a lot of pictures...





Overall, an amazing experience. Read about the trip in more detail here.

new gig

Starting this month I will be the Argentina Examiner for Examiner.com, a US based website with writers, or Examiners, contributing on any and every topic. Take a look here and check back often!

caminito

Pick up any Buenos Aires guidebook or visit any BA travel site and you'll see a picture of El Caminito. Images of the colored houses are usually associated with the city but in fact it's actually a very small street tucked away in La Boca. It's not surrounded by the safest neighborhood so tourists are advised to take a cab or bus directly to and from Caminito Street. Here you'll find a few restaurants and cafes, a small fair full of various vendors, and of course, tango dancing.

From images, the colorful houses of Caminito give off a tropical vibe, something that Buenos Aires doesn't have, and therefore separates it from many other parts of South and Central America. The actual reason the houses are so colorful is because this neighborhood held a large community of Italian immigrants about 100 years ago. Most worked in the nearby port and didn't have much money, so stole leftover paint from work to paint their homes, resulting in a mismatched neighborhood.

Since I love a good opportunity to take interesting photos I was set on checking out Caminito for myself. I wasn't really prepared for our experience. Although the neighborhood is interesting and splashed with beautiful colors, it is obviously very touristy. You can't walk 2 feet without someone pulling you into their restaurant or their store, offering various deals and promises. Nowhere else in the city have I experienced such aggresiveness and it was certainly a turn off. The area didn't take long to walk through, so after some photos and taking a stroll through the fair, where we did purchase some jewelry, we hopped in a cab to head back. A sight to see, but not necessarily a priority.



Caminito Street is located in La Boca

antiques galore

While there are several fairs in BA, they're each unique. There's Plaza Serrano with jewelry and craft vendors, and clothes being sold in the restaurants and cafes. There's Feria de Mataderos with gauchos, horses, and folk dancing. And then there's Mercado de San Telmo, full of antiques, produce vendors, and tango dancing.

Starting at Plaza de Mayo and walking down the narrow street of Defensa will take you through the typical mate gourds, scarves, and various Argentina souvenirs. But as you get deeper into San Telmo, the vendors begin to change and pretty soon every table is selling a unique collection of antiques. Clothes, jewelry, glassware, records, book, sunglasses, shoes, dishware.. you name it. The items really draw you in, and I can't help but wonder the stories behind them, whose hands they were in before they made it to the market to be sold, and how they got here.



Between all the vendors are other locals trying to make a peso or two. There are human statues (creative, but kind of scary), tango dancers, live music, roasted nuts, empanadas, and puppeteers. Cafes, parillas, and stores also line the street for a chance to step out of the cold (or heat in the summer months).

The actual Mercado de San Telmo is the huge indoor market, with an entrance on Defensa that is easy to miss. The high ceilings cover even more antiques, plus several produce vendors.

With so much to see, Mercado de San Telmo makes for a wonderful Sunday ritual.

Mercado de San Telmo building is located between Defensa, Carlos Calvo, Bolívar and Estados Unidos