tigre

A quick and cheap train ride away lies Tigre, a small town on the delta and an easy escape from the hustle and bustle of the city. Opt for the Tren de La Costa on the way there for a more scenic route, at AR$12 one way. On the way back take the Mitre Line, which ends in Retiro, for AR$0.80 one way.

Once in Tigre enjoy a walk along the river, browse the market, and stop for lunch. Definitely take a tour of the Delta (one of the little stands along the river offering tours for about AR$22 per person is perfectly safe, and a better deal than the tourist agencies which charge almost double that) where in a 1hr boat ride you will learn about the history of the town and see how people live on the water, with boats being used for supermarkets and school buses.

If there's time, spend a few hours in Parque de la Costa, the amusement park of Buenos Aires. South America doesn't really "do" amusement parks, so don't expect 6 Flags, Busch Gardens, or any of the other usual suspects we have in the states. Ticket prices vary depending on the day and what is included, but range from AR$25 - AR$80 per person. Once inside everything is fairly close together, despite the deceiving map, making the park look much bigger than it is. For such a small park, there are some good rides, including 2 upside down rollercoasters, a log flume, a wooden rollercoaster, swings, and some extreme sports you pay extra for. Food options don't go much further than burgers, hot dogs, fries, and ice cream. Overall it's clean, fun, and a good value.

Parque de la Costa is open Tuesday - Sunday from 11am - 9pm. Tren de La Costa station is located on Av. Maipu 2300, in Olivos.

guest blogger: Stuck in the 50s ... Malbec style

GatoNegro. A balcony. Buenos Aires. Savoring good friends from abroad. This is DEFINITELY the life. Yes, it has been a while since an update has been made to this particular perspective of residence in the Argentina capital. (notice the alliteration - I paid attention in 8th grade). Until just recently, nothing earth-shattering has occurred in my otherwise monotonous porteña existence. A week ago a relatively unknown decided to stop in. His name: Paul. Enough said. One of the most amazing, influential people in my life. He convinces me to leave DC - at least, that it was a good idea, for me. And, in return, I was able to offer the same to him. He to Barcelona, albeit a bit later. So we have this connection. And I get to play host and tour guide for a while, which has been ... entertaining, to say the least. Wings on a wall, amazing Argentine steak, prevoleta like none other, super unhealthy yet tantalizingly delicious choripan, walks through Palermo and San Telmo and Congreso and parks and cafes and book stores, text messaging like you would not believe. A smile never escapes my face. It's been great to welcome a now good friend to a city I have come to accept as "home". He constantly comments on how well I know my surroundings and how comfortable I am here. And, it's true, when I think about it, I am comfortable here. I know my way around. Anything he has asked me, I've been able to come up with a relatively reasonable response. I am proud of myself, as I should be, he tells me. As a favor in return he puts up with my constant "so, in Barcelona, what is ...blah blah blah... like" compared to life here. Many differences, he has to say. But I like where I am. The food, the people, the wine, the vibrance. He makes me realize how much I have really gotten to know my new surroundings, how well I have managed on my own, meeting new people, living independently, tolerating Argentine casanovas, tackling check-out counters, confidently navigating bus routes. It's impressive, he says, of where I am here in Buenos Aires. And, you know, I agree.

It has been really nice having a friend from DC come to visit. To show around. To be "normal" around. To have mutual experiences and connections to reflect upon, and at the same time, understand what it is like to leave everything that you perceive as normal American living for a new, well, American life. And I am doing very well. I may not have all the answers. I may be enjoying my youth. But it's where I should be - eating too much ice cream, enjoying my oh-too-many-hours of leisure time, figuring out what is best for me, outside my comfort zone. In a new comfort zone.

Cats and walruses. Yeeeeessssss. Balloon hearts. Mate microphones. Wine on a balcony in a perfect, cloudless, sunny porteño evening. It's my life, and I love it.

Hasta pronto, familia y amigos. Todo bien. No se preocupen. Estoy en buenas manos.

Meghan

(About the author: Paul Contino is a respected and worldy traveler, making his way, one country at a time, through South America. You can find his perception of latin life in this particular article, as well as at http://paulcontino.wordpress.com. Kudos to his entertaining personality and unique and somewhat odd aproach to life!)

choripan (bondiola not pictured)

posing with the author

tango

Tango is THE dance of Buenos Aires. An intimate dance which uses a lot of improvisation, it originated here in BA and the tradition still carries on. Going a day without seeing at least one tango image, store, or performance is almost impossible!

One of the few things open on Sundays is the San Telmo Market. Since almost everything else is closed, it seems most of the city flocks here to pass Sunday afternoon. We stroll, shop, eat, and what else, watch tango.

colonia, uruguay

As all non-portenos living in Argentina know, we are granted an automatic 90 day tourist visa upon our arrival. This means that 90 days after our arrival we have to leave the country (whether it has to be for a day, night, or just enough time to get your passport stamped is up in the air) to renew it, or else pay a fine. The fine used to be only AR$50, which didn't exactly make us expats run to the border after 3 months, but now that it's jumped to AR$300 it's worth it to spend less on a boat ticket and make a day trip to Uruguay.

Just a quick boat ride away, the closest Uruguayan city to Buenos Aires is Colonia. Buquebus, the boat company, located in Puerto Madero at Av. Cordoba, gives you the option of the fast boat (1 hour) or the "slow" boat (3 hours), which is a little less expensive. A quiet town on the water with cobblestone streets, a lighthouse, and outdated cars, Colonia feels years away from the big city of Buenos Aires. The short travel time, plus the small size of Colonia, allows for an easy day trip.



Some of the main highlights include enjoying time on the water, walking (or riding around on a rented moto or go kart) the quaint cobblestone streets with their colonial houses, enjoying coffee in the main plaza, visiting the museums, the lighthouse, the historical city gate and wall with its cannons, and Iglesia Matriz (the oldest church in Uruguay). Even all of this will take no more than a few hours, since everything is small and centrally located, so taking your time and relaxing is key, and easy to do.

A beautiful city, and so easily accessible from Buenos Aires, a daytrip is definitely worth it.

salta road trip

Last week, at the last minute, I was fortunate enough to join my friends on trip to Salta, in northern Argentina. I knew little about the area besides everyone telling me it was "¡muy linda!" which it turns out, is true. Although my friends had done more research, they too didn't really know what to expect, so we were in for an adventure.

We started out on the luxurious 20 hour overnight bus ride which included a full reclining seat with a pillow and blanket, dinner, breakfast, both alcoholic and non alcoholic drinks, 3 movies, and a stewardess. Unlike any bus ride I've ever experienced! We arrived in Salta, the capital of the Salta region, refreshed and ready to sightsee. After checking into our hostel, we explored the small city, including the stunning San Francisco Church, the Salta Tram, and the beautiful main plaza with orange trees.

The next day we rented a car and set off to explore the rest of the region for week, staying in a different little town each night. Mainly following suggestions from guide books and tourist offices, we had no idea what to really expect.

We drove on climbing narrow, rocky, twisty roads through mountains with no barriers separating us from the cliffs below, saw breathtaking scenery, stepped out of the car into complete silence and miles of mountains, stood in a natural amphitheater, hiked La Garganta del Diablo (the devil's throat), and tasted the natural salt of the salt flats...

We stayed in small dusty, outdated towns where we were the only tourists, bought (not so) fresh produce from local grocers and cooked dinners in our homestays, ate lots of empanadas, shopped artisenaries, toured vineyards, met locals, and experienced local holiday festivals, and of course, took a lot of pictures...





Overall, an amazing experience. Read about the trip in more detail here.

caminito

Pick up any Buenos Aires guidebook or visit any BA travel site and you'll see a picture of El Caminito. Images of the colored houses are usually associated with the city but in fact it's actually a very small street tucked away in La Boca. It's not surrounded by the safest neighborhood so tourists are advised to take a cab or bus directly to and from Caminito Street. Here you'll find a few restaurants and cafes, a small fair full of various vendors, and of course, tango dancing.

From images, the colorful houses of Caminito give off a tropical vibe, something that Buenos Aires doesn't have, and therefore separates it from many other parts of South and Central America. The actual reason the houses are so colorful is because this neighborhood held a large community of Italian immigrants about 100 years ago. Most worked in the nearby port and didn't have much money, so stole leftover paint from work to paint their homes, resulting in a mismatched neighborhood.

Since I love a good opportunity to take interesting photos I was set on checking out Caminito for myself. I wasn't really prepared for our experience. Although the neighborhood is interesting and splashed with beautiful colors, it is obviously very touristy. You can't walk 2 feet without someone pulling you into their restaurant or their store, offering various deals and promises. Nowhere else in the city have I experienced such aggresiveness and it was certainly a turn off. The area didn't take long to walk through, so after some photos and taking a stroll through the fair, where we did purchase some jewelry, we hopped in a cab to head back. A sight to see, but not necessarily a priority.



Caminito Street is located in La Boca

antiques galore

While there are several fairs in BA, they're each unique. There's Plaza Serrano with jewelry and craft vendors, and clothes being sold in the restaurants and cafes. There's Feria de Mataderos with gauchos, horses, and folk dancing. And then there's Mercado de San Telmo, full of antiques, produce vendors, and tango dancing.

Starting at Plaza de Mayo and walking down the narrow street of Defensa will take you through the typical mate gourds, scarves, and various Argentina souvenirs. But as you get deeper into San Telmo, the vendors begin to change and pretty soon every table is selling a unique collection of antiques. Clothes, jewelry, glassware, records, book, sunglasses, shoes, dishware.. you name it. The items really draw you in, and I can't help but wonder the stories behind them, whose hands they were in before they made it to the market to be sold, and how they got here.



Between all the vendors are other locals trying to make a peso or two. There are human statues (creative, but kind of scary), tango dancers, live music, roasted nuts, empanadas, and puppeteers. Cafes, parillas, and stores also line the street for a chance to step out of the cold (or heat in the summer months).

The actual Mercado de San Telmo is the huge indoor market, with an entrance on Defensa that is easy to miss. The high ceilings cover even more antiques, plus several produce vendors.

With so much to see, Mercado de San Telmo makes for a wonderful Sunday ritual.

Mercado de San Telmo building is located between Defensa, Carlos Calvo, Bolívar and Estados Unidos

el rosedal

Right in the middle of Parque Tres de Febrero is the stunning Rose Garden. Stroll through the paths to discover over 1,000 different types of roses and even more rose bushes, learn about the garden's history, and view the busts of famous poets in the Garden of Poets. Then take a break on one of the many benches, or spread a blanket for a picnic on the green grass and watch the paddleboats go by.

On one side of the garden you can enter right off the Tres de Febrero 1-mile paved running path, which surrounds the Rose Garden. On the other side of the lake you can enter by walking over the Puente Blanco, white bridge. Either way, you'll find yourself in one of the most beautiful parts of the city.

Roses always remind me of two very important people in my life, so besides
El Rosedal being so lovely, this reason also draws me to the garden.

parque tres de febrero

Nestled into Palermo is a little piece of heaven.
Parque Tres de Febrero is a sprawling piece of land covering 62 acres, made up of several smaller parks and bodies of water. From the green grass to the different types of trees to the lakes, it's easy to lose yourself while exploring the beautiful nature the park has to offer.

On any given day, especially the weekend, you'll find people of all ages biking, running, skateboarding, rollerblading, walking, paddleboating, or picnicking. The one mile paved track around the breathtaking Rosedal (Rose Garden) is perfect for most of these activities.

A great opportunity to get some fresh air, escape
the city life, and take some photos, I'm lucky Parque Tres de Febrero is just a few blocks from my apartment.







Parque Tres de Febrero is located between Avenidas Libertador, Sarmiento, Figueroa Alcorta and Infanta Isabel.

cementerio de la recoleta

Speaking of the Recoleta Cemetary, my dad and I did have the pleasure of briefly visiting it last week. Walking along the outside, it's impossible to see what you're headed towards, with the high walls blocking any glimpse of the cemetary. Once inside, prepare to get lost wandering around this beautiful mini-city of tombs and statues. If you follow the crowd like we did, you'll find Evita's grave, probably the most famous one there, but take time to check out the rest of the cemetary also.

If you're here on the weekend, check out the Feria Artesanal Plaza Intendente Alvear, a market with crafts, jewelry, souvenirs, food, and more.




The Cemetary is located at Junin 1790 in Recoleta. Admission is free, but there's a charge if you wish to purchase the guidebook. The Feria is located right outside the Cemetary's entrance.

don't cry for me argentina

Before Museo Evita was opened in 2002 in Buenos Aires by Eva (or Evita's, as she was affectionately called) Peron's grandniece, the mansion had been a shelter for homeless women and children, Hogar de Tránsito. As Eva spent many of her last years on projects dedicated to helping the less fortunate citizens of Argentina, it only seems fitting that this is where the museum dedicated to her is now housed.

Through photographs, original artifacts, videos, and quotes, the museum depicts Evita's short life, beginning with her early poverty filled childhood in a Buenos Aires province. Once a teenager, Evita traveled to Buenos Aires to not only escape poverty but to also pursue an acting career. From here she gained great success as a radio actress and even had a short film career.

Walking through room after room we learn of Evita's relationship with Juan Peron and her move into politics as the First Lady of Argentina. From a poor childhood with no formal education, and coming right out of an acting career, she had her fair share of critics but quickly became a popular figure in Argentina. With her own money, Eva started the Eva Peron Foundation in 1948. Through a video, we learn of the many beneficial programs Evita initiated for Argentine citizens in need. She also had a great impact on women in politics, with a strong role in gaining Argentine women the right to vote.

In 1951, Evita was diagnosed with cancer and died a year later at the young age of 33. A video goes into detail of the people's mourning, her memorial, missing corpse, and final resting place in Recoleta Cemetary, here in Buenos Aires. I visited Recoleta Cemetary last week, shortly after her birthday of May 7th, and her grave was covered in flowers, showing that even to this day Evita remains a powerful icon and influence for the Argentine people.


Never having seen Madonna's film version of the musical of Evita's life, I honestly didn't know much about Evita. It was really interesting to see original artifacts such as newspaper articles, books, and even outfits worn by her. I loved learning about all of the good she did through her charity. Luckily, there were English translations of the descriptions and quotes, which certainly helped me be able to leave having learned a few things!

Museo Evita is located at Lafinur 2988 in Palermo. Admission is AR$12, and it's open Tuesday - Sunday from 11am - 7pm. The museum also holds a gift shop, library, and restaurant, all with different hours. Definitely worth a visit!

This article can also be seen on Argentina's Travel Guide.